18 September 2023

Niki Rusev, 17, onsights Helikopter v omaki (8b)

Niki Rusev, who last year did his third 9a, has onsighted Helikopter v omaki (8b) in Mišja Peč. "At first I wasn’t motivated to climb but later I got enthusiastic to try something doable in a day. I managed to do my first 8b onsight✊. If the grade is solid, that means this is the first 8b OS for Bulgaria 🇧🇬, which is great for the Bulgarian climbing community🙂." (c) Vladimir Pekov

Can you tell us more about the onsight?
No doubt I felt in my best shape ever but not every time it goes how I wanted to be [He was #46 in the Koper WC]. Followed by a crazy eating of a big amount of unhealthy food, the next day we went rock climbing in Osp. It was hot and humid, also I really didn’t want to climb after all that food and bad qualis but then I got enthusiastic to try something doable in a day. First I sent Baram Baram (8a+) 2nd go, then decided to try an 8b OS.

I got pumped after the second clip but the big jugs on the stalactites made me stay. It was quite a big fight with the pump to reach out at the end of the first part. I tried to go into the ext. which is 8c but immediately fell. It was great this worked out. I can’t tell if the grade is solid, but I’m still happy I’m improving my onsight style, little by little. Usually, I project something longer, but short trips give great challenges for onsights.
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