
18 September 2023
Niki Rusev, 17, onsights Helikopter v omaki (8b)
Niki Rusev, who last year did his third 9a, has onsighted Helikopter v omaki (8b) in Miลกja Peฤ. "At first I wasnโt motivated to climb but later I got enthusiastic to try something doable in a day. I managed to do my first 8b onsightโ. If the grade is solid, that means this is the first 8b OS for Bulgaria ๐ง๐ฌ, which is great for the Bulgarian climbing community๐." (c) Vladimir Pekov
Can you tell us more about the onsight?
No doubt I felt in my best shape ever but not every time it goes how I wanted to be [He was #46 in the Koper WC]. Followed by a crazy eating of a big amount of unhealthy food, the next day we went rock climbing in Osp. It was hot and humid, also I really didnโt want to climb after all that food and bad qualis but then I got enthusiastic to try something doable in a day. First I sent Baram Baram (8a+) 2nd go, then decided to try an 8b OS.
I got pumped after the second clip but the big jugs on the stalactites made me stay. It was quite a big fight with the pump to reach out at the end of the first part. I tried to go into the ext. which is 8c but immediately fell. It was great this worked out. I canโt tell if the grade is solid, but Iโm still happy Iโm improving my onsight style, little by little. Usually, I project something longer, but short trips give great challenges for onsights.
Can you tell us more about the onsight?
No doubt I felt in my best shape ever but not every time it goes how I wanted to be [He was #46 in the Koper WC]. Followed by a crazy eating of a big amount of unhealthy food, the next day we went rock climbing in Osp. It was hot and humid, also I really didnโt want to climb after all that food and bad qualis but then I got enthusiastic to try something doable in a day. First I sent Baram Baram (8a+) 2nd go, then decided to try an 8b OS.
I got pumped after the second clip but the big jugs on the stalactites made me stay. It was quite a big fight with the pump to reach out at the end of the first part. I tried to go into the ext. which is 8c but immediately fell. It was great this worked out. I canโt tell if the grade is solid, but Iโm still happy Iโm improving my onsight style, little by little. Usually, I project something longer, but short trips give great challenges for onsights.
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