21 November 2025
Filip Schenk ticks Erebor (9b)
Filip Schenk, who last week sent Tre Mou Polacche (9a), has completed Erebor (9b) in Arco. The 9a took just two days and the Italian says it is the best of itโs grade in the area and here are his comments for the 9b. (c) Crimp Films
โErebor has always been a route that struck me deeply: rom the beauty of its movements to the variety of climbing styles it demands. This king line, first ascended by Ste [Ghisolfi] in 2021, features very small holds that require significant physical strength, but at the same time includes technical, body-positioning moves where you need to move well and climb with sensitivity.
The route starts right away with a section of 25 extremely intense moves that never give you a moment to breathe. Then you reach the final boulder, preceded by a good rest: thatโs where you need strong mental focus, because while you relax, you also have time to think about the possibility of failing. And thatโs exactly what has always motivated me to try it: you need to be a truly complete climber to send it.
I had my first attempts in autumn 2024, and I immediately realized it suited me well. The only part that gave me trouble was the first boulder: I couldnโt do it with the original beta, so I had to come up with my own sequence to get through it. Throughout last competition season, I kept thinking about when Iโd finally return to try it again, and once November arrived, I decided to dedicate myself entirely to Erebor.
Since I already knew the moves from the two sessions last year and had trained specifically for the first boulder before November, I found myself clipping the anchor much sooner than expected, finally settling the score with Erebor this year after just four days on the route. It was an unforgettable feeling!"
How did you train specifically for the first Boulder?
I set the same boulder on my home gym with the most similar holds possible and trained on it.
โErebor has always been a route that struck me deeply: rom the beauty of its movements to the variety of climbing styles it demands. This king line, first ascended by Ste [Ghisolfi] in 2021, features very small holds that require significant physical strength, but at the same time includes technical, body-positioning moves where you need to move well and climb with sensitivity.
The route starts right away with a section of 25 extremely intense moves that never give you a moment to breathe. Then you reach the final boulder, preceded by a good rest: thatโs where you need strong mental focus, because while you relax, you also have time to think about the possibility of failing. And thatโs exactly what has always motivated me to try it: you need to be a truly complete climber to send it.
I had my first attempts in autumn 2024, and I immediately realized it suited me well. The only part that gave me trouble was the first boulder: I couldnโt do it with the original beta, so I had to come up with my own sequence to get through it. Throughout last competition season, I kept thinking about when Iโd finally return to try it again, and once November arrived, I decided to dedicate myself entirely to Erebor.
Since I already knew the moves from the two sessions last year and had trained specifically for the first boulder before November, I found myself clipping the anchor much sooner than expected, finally settling the score with Erebor this year after just four days on the route. It was an unforgettable feeling!"
How did you train specifically for the first Boulder?
I set the same boulder on my home gym with the most similar holds possible and trained on it.
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