Katherine Choong does Les Nerfs à Vifs (8c+)

13 April 2023

Katherine Choong has done Les Nerfs à Vifs 8c+ in La verrière. The 31-year-old is a former competition climber and already has two 9a’s and several hard MP’s up to 8b+ under her belt. (c) Mélanie Cannac

Can you tell us more about Les Nerfs?
Before the start of the multi-pitch routes season, I really wanted to find a project to get back in shape after a little winter break where I couldn't go to the crag because of the weather in Switzerland and my job. Finding an 8c+/9a route that fits my small size is always a bit complicated. Fortunately, Cédric Lachat is the best climbing partner to find a good project for me, he is the one who told me about a hard route which could suit me located in La Verrière, not far from Millau (France). Indeed, no morpho movement, physical sections on tufas, underclings, crimps, and a long fight of resistance until the end, the perfect route for me! So we spent 7 days there in February, at the end of which I fell in the very last hard moves. I really wanted to finish this route so I came back as soon as I could in April. When I arrived, several key holds in the crux sections were wet and on my first day, I got a split on my finger that wouldn't stop bleeding. It was pretty hard mentally but fortunately, I really managed to just focus on my performance, no matter the conditions or anything else.

Last Monday, on my first attempt of the day, I fell at the very first crux, my hand slipped on a wet hold. I tried again, but I fell again at the very top. The sun was coming up, I only had time for a short break before a last try, I fought on every move, close to falling on the last moves before the belay, not being able to see the holds anymore because of the sun that had reached the top of the route, until finally clipping the anchor! What a fight! Many thanks to Pierre Soulé and Julien Mayet for bolting this amazing line, and Matteo and all his family for their kindness, the betas and the precious support.

0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

MOST COMMENTED

EDITORIAL

5 December 2022

Garnbret wants strict BMI rules in 2023

In a 40 min interview at the IFSC Climbing Summit, Janja Garnbret was very straightforward about BMI testing. She referred to a survey in Innsbruck where it later was stated that: 16 % of female athletes have no menstruation and 22 % reported that they currently struggle with an eating disorder. …

Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

12 January 2023

Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…

EDITORIAL

21 January 2023

Is onsight climbing on life support?

During the last few years, we have seen plenty of advancement when it comes to redpointing ability globally. In just the last three years, we saw close to 150 9a+ ascents which can be compared to only ten 9a+ ascents per year, last decade. Ten years ago, Alex Megos onsighted Estado critico (9a) but…

RELATED

Sonawolf 9a FA by Matteo Soule (15)

12 July 2022

Sonawolf 9a FA by Matteo Soule (15)

Matteo Soule has done the FA of Sonawolf (9a) in La verrière. The 15-year-old did his first 9a this spring. At age 13, he did the FA of Dieu Merci in Gorges du …

Nordic Plumber 8c by Katherine Choong

NUMBERS

22 September 2018

Nordic Plumber 8c by Katherine Choong

Choong Katherine, #17 in the Lead WCH in Innsbruck in spite of almost only training on rock, has done Nordic Plumber 8c in Flatanger. In the 8a ranking game, sh…

Une Jolie Fleur... 8b MP by Katherine Choong

27 October 2021

Une Jolie Fleur... 8b MP by Katherine Choong

Katherine Choong, who previously in 2021 has done two 8c+, has done the 300m long, Une Jolie Fleur dans une Peau de Vache 8b in Paroi du Duc, Gorges du Verdon. …