7 June 2023

Jana ล vecovรก climbs her 14th 8A+!

Jana Svecova, who last year did her first two 8B+, has done Kocour v botรกch, z cรญga potรกh (8A+) in Hluboฤepskรฉ plotny, video.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Last weekend, we visited a small crag near Prague. Actually, it is only about 10 minutes away from the center of Prague, and it's really cool to find such good climbing in a city this big. Anyway, we heard that there might be an 8A+ boulder which is going through small crags, so I immediately thought of trying to flash it. On Thursday, we went to check out the holds, and I felt quite confident that I could actually flash it. We returned to the boulder the next morning because of better conditions. I prepared myself and gave it a flash try. Unfortunately, my hand slipped in the last move, and I fell off. Ah, it's such a bad feeling to be so close to flashing an 8A+. In the end, after a couple of tries, I managed to send the boulder. I also discovered another beta and ended up skipping some moves. If I had known this beta before the flash try, I might have been able to flash it because it felt super easy. On Sunday, we went to check out another project in the area that hasn't been climbed yet. I gave it a few tries, and I think it could be an 8B boulder at least, so we definitely want to come back one day. Pรฅ
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Jana ล vecovรก, back in business after almost one year with injuries and rehabilitation, has done Prehistorik (8B+) in Labskรฉ รšdolรญ. Part of her recovery was a trip in January to establish new boulders in the United Arab Emirates, UAE video and Cleavage Canyon video. "I get the recommendation for thisโ€ฆ
Jana Svecova has done the FA of Jaxitax low (8A+) in Moravskรฝ kras. "Amazing to get back after 2 years and do the lower version of such a great 8A." It should be noted that originally the stand start version was graded 8B.
Roof der Wildnis 8B+ by Jana ล vecovรก
Jana Svecova has done Roof der Wildnis in Lower Austria, after trying it for only four days, video. "8B+ boulder was THE GOAL for my climbing career. I actualโ€ฆ