Vertical-Life
Roof der Wildnis 8B+ by Jana Švecová
"8B+ boulder was THE GOAL for my climbing career. I actually wasn’t looking for a boulder in such a grade for this year, but recently we got to know one really nice and extremely strong guy Lukas Mayerhofer from Austria. We climbed a lot in Saalachtal together and Moravian Karst as well, we (me and Martin) were going through his YouTube channel checking out his ascents and we found this boulder named Roof der Wildnis 8B+. Looking really in my style and I immediately got psyched and we contacted Lukas if he could show us the area and that boulder. The very next weekend we were on our way.
When we got there, we were amazed at how amazing the boulders in lower Austria are, just absolutely amazing and beautiful, and the particular this boulder is a world-class one. It is a boulder in the roof as you can see in the video, through a small edge where I thought I could fit my fingers pretty well but even it is in a crack and I wasn't really benefiting from having thin fingers as the holds in the crux are quite open and the difficult part is that you can't fully crimp them. This actually suited me even better, cause half-crimping is what I like the most.
First I’ve tried the boulder last weekend where I was able to link up all the moves but it was just too much to send it on the first visit. Our next visit was this weekend and the goal was simply just to send the boulder. I warmed up my fingers and the body, I tried a couple of times the two final moves because there is nothing more frustrating than falling from the final part of the boulder. I did those moves pretty easily so I gained confidence thinking that once I get through the crux, I will finish it easily. Expectations didn’t fulfill and I fell from the final 7B+ top out twice 😁🤯 I started to have dought if I can even do it…
I knew I can’t try it again like this so I had to find another beta for the top-out. That is the moment when Martin comes in pretty handy😁 as he always finds every single possible way for certain sequences and decides which one is the easiest for him. Luckily he found like four different ways to do the last moves and one suited me really well. I must say that before him finding a different method a real mental battle started for me. I was already tired, my skin was bleeding and the grade of the boulder started to play mind games on me.
Anyway long story short. On the next try I fell from the crux and almost lost my nerves, but we had something like psychological therapy discussion with Martin and it helped to calm me down. I also meditated for a little and the next go I did it, I am so happy!! Now hard training for three weeks to get ready for our two months trip to UAE😍"
What is UAE?
United Arab Emirates. It is the area we visited last winter. Our plan is to further develop local potential, we left there couple of amazing projects that we are looking forward to trying again. I have two videos from there on my youtube channel :)
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