20 April 2022
Prehistoric 8B (+) by Jana ล vecovรก
Jana ล vecovรก, back in business after almost one year with injuries and rehabilitation, has done Prehistorik (8B+) in Labskรฉ รdolรญ. Part of her recovery was a trip in January to establish new boulders in the United Arab Emirates, UAE video and Cleavage Canyon video.
"I get the recommendation for this boulder from strong gal Lucie Hrozovรก as she said it could be potentially climbable for shorter climbers. The boulder was FAed by Martin Strรกnik and even though he is incredibly strong he commented that the boulder is good training for biceps so I won't lie. After the first session, I spent two weeks training the power in my biceps to have at least a chance of doing all the moves. This time (2nd visit) we had six days of holiday so I decided to climb one day on one day off. Interestingly enough, I was improving every day, until the last session I was able to send it. I wouldn't say that it wasn't my style at all, as I am more like a powerful climber and shorter boulders suit me better but this was kind of a challenge, so that was even more fun to try hard on it. Somehow it worked and I send it with help of Martin ล vec who always cleans the boulder for me, turns on the fan, makes marks on the holds so I know where to go, helps me with micro betas and much moreโฆ As I said teamwork make the dream work :D
I have to say that it is so refreshing to be able to climb on my limit again after last year full of disappointment, from almost sending 8B+ to pushing in sessions and training way too much and injuring my shoulder and two fingers, resulting in struggling with one or another for about six months. Yay so happy to be back and already looking for new challenges. :)"
"I get the recommendation for this boulder from strong gal Lucie Hrozovรก as she said it could be potentially climbable for shorter climbers. The boulder was FAed by Martin Strรกnik and even though he is incredibly strong he commented that the boulder is good training for biceps so I won't lie. After the first session, I spent two weeks training the power in my biceps to have at least a chance of doing all the moves. This time (2nd visit) we had six days of holiday so I decided to climb one day on one day off. Interestingly enough, I was improving every day, until the last session I was able to send it. I wouldn't say that it wasn't my style at all, as I am more like a powerful climber and shorter boulders suit me better but this was kind of a challenge, so that was even more fun to try hard on it. Somehow it worked and I send it with help of Martin ล vec who always cleans the boulder for me, turns on the fan, makes marks on the holds so I know where to go, helps me with micro betas and much moreโฆ As I said teamwork make the dream work :D
I have to say that it is so refreshing to be able to climb on my limit again after last year full of disappointment, from almost sending 8B+ to pushing in sessions and training way too much and injuring my shoulder and two fingers, resulting in struggling with one or another for about six months. Yay so happy to be back and already looking for new challenges. :)"
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
Lucie Hrozovรก has done Prehistorik (8B/+) in Labskรฉ รdolรญ. The picture is from last month when she did Rustam Direct (8B) in Holstejn. In the female ranking gamโฆ
17 October 2022
Jaxitax low 8A+ by Jana ล vecovรก (Vincourkovรก)
Jana Svecova has done the FA of Jaxitax low (8A+) in Moravskรฝ kras. "Amazing to get back after 2 years and do the lower version of such a great 8A." It should be noted that originally the stand start version was graded 8B.
9 November 2022
Roof der Wildnis 8B+ by Jana ล vecovรก
Jana Svecova has done Roof der Wildnis in Lower Austria, after trying it for only four days, video.
"8B+ boulder was THE GOAL for my climbing career. I actualโฆ
Related news
Lucie Hrozovรก has done Prehistorik (8B/+) in Labskรฉ รdolรญ. The picture is from last month when she did Rustam Direct (8B) in Holstejn. In the female ranking gamโฆ
17 October 2022
Jaxitax low 8A+ by Jana ล vecovรก (Vincourkovรก)
Jana Svecova has done the FA of Jaxitax low (8A+) in Moravskรฝ kras. "Amazing to get back after 2 years and do the lower version of such a great 8A." It should be noted that originally the stand start version was graded 8B.
9 November 2022
Roof der Wildnis 8B+ by Jana ล vecovรก
Jana Svecova has done Roof der Wildnis in Lower Austria, after trying it for only four days, video.
"8B+ boulder was THE GOAL for my climbing career. I actualโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ