Prehistoric 8B (+) by Jana Švecová

20 April 2022

Jana Švecová, back in business after almost one year with injuries and rehabilitation, has done Prehistorik (8B+) in Labské Údolí. Part of her recovery was a trip in January to establish new boulders in the United Arab Emirates, UAE video and Cleavage Canyon video.

"I get the recommendation for this boulder from strong gal Lucie Hrozová as she said it could be potentially climbable for shorter climbers. The boulder was FAed by Martin Stránik and even though he is incredibly strong he commented that the boulder is good training for biceps so I won't lie. After the first session, I spent two weeks training the power in my biceps to have at least a chance of doing all the moves. This time (2nd visit) we had six days of holiday so I decided to climb one day on one day off. Interestingly enough, I was improving every day, until the last session I was able to send it. I wouldn't say that it wasn't my style at all, as I am more like a powerful climber and shorter boulders suit me better but this was kind of a challenge, so that was even more fun to try hard on it. Somehow it worked and I send it with help of Martin Švec who always cleans the boulder for me, turns on the fan, makes marks on the holds so I know where to go, helps me with micro betas and much more… As I said teamwork make the dream work :D

I have to say that it is so refreshing to be able to climb on my limit again after last year full of disappointment, from almost sending 8B+ to pushing in sessions and training way too much and injuring my shoulder and two fingers, resulting in struggling with one or another for about six months. Yay so happy to be back and already looking for new challenges. :)"


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