James Squire FA’s The World is not enough (9a)

James Squire has done the FA of The World Is Not Enough (9a) in Chamonix. This was his first sport route since 2010 when he did a 7a at age 13.

Can you tell us more about the FA and the potential in the area?
The route climbs up the middle of this amazing granite boulder that overhangs above a small river! It is essentially a long boulder problem on a rope (5 bolts). It breaks down as an 8B+ boulder problem with a dyno to start and a high tension crimpy crux, leading to a good rest and a fun 7A slopey arete topout. I worked the route for around 10 sessions, mostly after work with floodlights as I live close. Not many climbing walls nearby so I trained on a fingerboard at home, at a local weights gym and by night climbing outside in the evenings. Probably the most fun I have ever had working a route! A crazy experience from first seeing the project to making it happen.

I think there is potential for lots of hard boulders and routes around Chamonix - as long as your willing to do the work! Not as dense as areas in Switzerland but I think many hidden gems to be discovered.

My plan next is to explore higher altitude areas now that we are in spring and almost summer! I think there could be potential for new hard boulders at Plan de I’Aiguille. I checked it out a few years ago but have never been back. It is a boulder field halfway up Mont Blanc and you access by taking a cable car from Chamonix town.