Paradise Found 8C FA by James Squire

30 June 2022

James Squire, who previously has done four 8C's, has done the FA of Paradise Found (8C) in Hartland. It took him 15 sessions and there is a video on Insta.

"I first tried the project in summer 2020 but took a break from climbing and training in 2021. This year I spent around 15 sessions working on the boulder. This is a totally different style from many hard boulders. It does not involve sharp holds or small crimps instead, the difficulty comes from powerful bicep intensive moves, body tension, and complex beta. To train for the boulder, I spent more time lifting weights in the gym to cope with the athleticness of the boulder. Over the last 6 months, I had a weight gain of around ~8kg. Initially, I was a bit worried this might affect my fingers, but after some time to get used to it, my climbing and body, in general, feel stronger and more stable. I believe this is the hardest boulder I have ever climbed and is one of the best super hard boulders in the UK."

What about the ladder in the picture? Where does the boulder start?
It starts where I am in the Insta video (starts on two big undercuts). I started off the ladder as the beach level changes by a few meters week to week. Sometimes you can pull on normally. Tide and seasons affect it. An unusual condition you have to take into account when trying the boulder! You also can’t access it at high tide. So you can only try for a few hours of the day.

0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A


Change 9b+ by Seb Bouin - updated

8 August 2022

Change 9b+ by Seb Bouin - updated

Sebastien Bouin reports on Insta that he has done Change (9b+) in Flatanger. (c) Marco Müller Adam Ondra established the 55m route in 2012 as the first 9b+ in…


4 August 2022

Very hard boulders in ECH - Graz

The European Youth Championship in Bouldering started today in Graz. Unfortunately, the boulders were very hard and both climbers and coaches were upset. The Norweigian Head Coach, Reino "Nicki" Horak said that for the girls, it was the worst and hardest setting he has ever seen. "It was much worse …

1 August 2022

Ratstaman Vibrations 9b FA by Alex Megos

Alex Megos, who was #3 in Briancon, reports on Insta that he has made the FA of Ratstaman Vibrations 9b in Céüse. The steep, 35m line was bolted by Chris Sharma some ten years ago and has been tried by many top climbers. Last year, Alex tried it but the actual process started three weeks ago after t…


Paradise Found 8C by Solomon Kemball

4 July 2022

Paradise Found 8C by Solomon Kemball

Solomon Kemball has done the first repeat of James Squire recent Paradise Found (8C) in Hartland. (c) James Whitehouse ”Paradise Found is at my local crag with…

8C FA by James Squire


31 August 2018

8C FA by James Squire

James Squire, who previously has done four 8B+' and 30 8B's, has done his first 8C by the FA of The World Is Yours in Biblins Cave. (c) Tom Maidwell "We were l…


14 August 2017

8B+ by James Squire (19) in Magic Wood

James Squire has done his first 8B+, The Never Ending Story, in Magic Wood. "Did not expect this today! Massive mental battle. 5th session this trip plus a few sessions over the last two years. Such a classic line, can't believe it!" The Never Ending Story 8B+ from Beastly Squirrel on Vimeo.