30 June 2022

Paradise Found 8C FA by James Squire

James Squire, who previously has done four 8C's, has done the FA of Paradise Found (8C) in Hartland. It took him 15 sessions and there is a video on Insta.

"I first tried the project in summer 2020 but took a break from climbing and training in 2021. This year I spent around 15 sessions working on the boulder. This is a totally different style from many hard boulders. It does not involve sharp holds or small crimps instead, the difficulty comes from powerful bicep intensive moves, body tension, and complex beta. To train for the boulder, I spent more time lifting weights in the gym to cope with the athleticness of the boulder. Over the last 6 months, I had a weight gain of around ~8kg. Initially, I was a bit worried this might affect my fingers, but after some time to get used to it, my climbing and body, in general, feel stronger and more stable. I believe this is the hardest boulder I have ever climbed and is one of the best super hard boulders in the UK."

What about the ladder in the picture? Where does the boulder start?
It starts where I am in the Insta video (starts on two big undercuts). I started off the ladder as the beach level changes by a few meters week to week. Sometimes you can pull on normally. Tide and seasons affect it. An unusual condition you have to take into account when trying the boulder! You also can’t access it at high tide. So you can only try for a few hours of the day.
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