4 July 2022
Paradise Found 8C by Solomon Kemball
Solomon Kemball has done the first repeat of James Squire recent Paradise Found (8C) in Hartland. (c) James Whitehouse
โParadise Found is at my local crag with a 20 minute drive so I was able to make frequent visits. I first had a little look at this last summer and immediately wrote it off as impossible until I saw that James had been trying it this year and I thought I would go back and have another look. The first session I had was awful I had no idea what to do and moved on quickly again but after a visit to the crag with James and watching him try it I came back and managed to figure out the crux sequence which revolves around a drop into the double undercut and used some slightly different foot beta which allowed minimal changes between the two moves.
At the time I was also trying another project on that roof which I was going backwards and forwards between depending on which had the better conditions. After figuring out the crux it took me another session to link the release and cut into the crux and then another to work out the top I managed to find some different beta for the top just as I couldn't work out how james was managing it and this allowed me to skip the roll around moves and just get a bat hang into the finishing jug. Although this reduces the amount of moves it requires a lot of tension and is very committing especially with varying beach heights.
The next session I managed to get it in two overlapping halves, the start into the drop down and from the cut to the top. At this point I had just finished all my other projects in the roof including Megladon 8B+ and Jaws sit 8B so i had all my focus on this, however, James had politely asked me not to get on this project which seemed reasonable as I would have had no clue how to do it if I hadn't seen his beta. So, after having a sneaky couple of sessions trying it from the ground, I decided to go do another 8B+ up at Biblins called Spaceship and on the same day James managed to get his ascent, so I spent a few days resting and managed to get the send next session 4 days later. Overall it took me about 7 sessions I believe and I think a run of form and psyche definitely was required for the send.โ
โParadise Found is at my local crag with a 20 minute drive so I was able to make frequent visits. I first had a little look at this last summer and immediately wrote it off as impossible until I saw that James had been trying it this year and I thought I would go back and have another look. The first session I had was awful I had no idea what to do and moved on quickly again but after a visit to the crag with James and watching him try it I came back and managed to figure out the crux sequence which revolves around a drop into the double undercut and used some slightly different foot beta which allowed minimal changes between the two moves.
At the time I was also trying another project on that roof which I was going backwards and forwards between depending on which had the better conditions. After figuring out the crux it took me another session to link the release and cut into the crux and then another to work out the top I managed to find some different beta for the top just as I couldn't work out how james was managing it and this allowed me to skip the roll around moves and just get a bat hang into the finishing jug. Although this reduces the amount of moves it requires a lot of tension and is very committing especially with varying beach heights.
The next session I managed to get it in two overlapping halves, the start into the drop down and from the cut to the top. At this point I had just finished all my other projects in the roof including Megladon 8B+ and Jaws sit 8B so i had all my focus on this, however, James had politely asked me not to get on this project which seemed reasonable as I would have had no clue how to do it if I hadn't seen his beta. So, after having a sneaky couple of sessions trying it from the ground, I decided to go do another 8B+ up at Biblins called Spaceship and on the same day James managed to get his ascent, so I spent a few days resting and managed to get the send next session 4 days later. Overall it took me about 7 sessions I believe and I think a run of form and psyche definitely was required for the send.โ
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