Vertical-Life
Paradise Found 8C by Solomon Kemball
”Paradise Found is at my local crag with a 20 minute drive so I was able to make frequent visits. I first had a little look at this last summer and immediately wrote it off as impossible until I saw that James had been trying it this year and I thought I would go back and have another look. The first session I had was awful I had no idea what to do and moved on quickly again but after a visit to the crag with James and watching him try it I came back and managed to figure out the crux sequence which revolves around a drop into the double undercut and used some slightly different foot beta which allowed minimal changes between the two moves.
At the time I was also trying another project on that roof which I was going backwards and forwards between depending on which had the better conditions. After figuring out the crux it took me another session to link the release and cut into the crux and then another to work out the top I managed to find some different beta for the top just as I couldn't work out how james was managing it and this allowed me to skip the roll around moves and just get a bat hang into the finishing jug. Although this reduces the amount of moves it requires a lot of tension and is very committing especially with varying beach heights.
The next session I managed to get it in two overlapping halves, the start into the drop down and from the cut to the top. At this point I had just finished all my other projects in the roof including Megladon 8B+ and Jaws sit 8B so i had all my focus on this, however, James had politely asked me not to get on this project which seemed reasonable as I would have had no clue how to do it if I hadn't seen his beta. So, after having a sneaky couple of sessions trying it from the ground, I decided to go do another 8B+ up at Biblins called Spaceship and on the same day James managed to get his ascent, so I spent a few days resting and managed to get the send next session 4 days later. Overall it took me about 7 sessions I believe and I think a run of form and psyche definitely was required for the send.”
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Paradise Found 8C FA by James Squire
James Squire, who previously has done four 8C's, has done the FA of Paradise Found (8C) in Hartland. It took him 15 sessions and there is a video on Insta. "I …
Paradise Found, first 8C for Leo Skinner
Leo Skinner has sent Paradise Found (8C) in Hartland, which starts from a ladder just by the sea. "Thought I’d do this quick but ended up having an epic falling off the end like 8 times in the most bizarre of ways. Sleeping in the car and 6am start did the job! First 8C and what a sick one at that."…
The Story of 2 World's 8C by Solomon Kemball
Solomon Kemball has done The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano, after some six sessions. "As far as boulders go, this has gotta be one of the best in the wo…
Paradise Found 8C FA by James Squire
James Squire, who previously has done four 8C's, has done the FA of Paradise Found (8C) in Hartland. It took him 15 sessions and there is a video on Insta. "I …
Paradise Found, first 8C for Leo Skinner
Leo Skinner has sent Paradise Found (8C) in Hartland, which starts from a ladder just by the sea. "Thought I’d do this quick but ended up having an epic falling off the end like 8 times in the most bizarre of ways. Sleeping in the car and 6am start did the job! First 8C and what a sick one at that."…
The Story of 2 World's 8C by Solomon Kemball
Solomon Kemball has done The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano, after some six sessions. "As far as boulders go, this has gotta be one of the best in the wo…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…