
Gergő Vályi ticks two 9a’s
Can you tell us more about the two ascents?
Fabela pa la enmienda (9a): I didn't expect to send it in only two days. It was really cool to come back to Santa Linya after a short Margalef trip (where 8a-s are harder for me than a 9a here). The 45 meters long route was 130 moves with my beta, and I spent 70 minutes on the wall. So big thanks @gypanni for the belaying.
At the send go, "La Fabela" 8c+ felt easy, and my arms were fresh at the good rest, so I hoped for the best. From here there is a 20 meters long 8b left, where the most of the holds good, you are at a really steep overhang, and there are some cruxes between the good rests. I almost fell from the middle part, and was so pumped when I got the last rest. Then I felt fresh again, but was afraid, that the pump will come back after 3 moves, but it doesn't happen, so I was able to go trough the last crux easily right before the chain.
Seleccio Natural (9a): It was about 7-8 tries. I knew the upper part from last year, from Digital Extension. Now I only fell before the crux, and from the really last move, as the Digital Ext. last year. It was really fustrating, mostly because of the weather. The sun wasn't really shining, because of the fog, and the temperatur was about 5 C°. Today, not just the weather, but everything was against me. The little pinch and the right hand pocket was super wet, even though I dried them up before the cilmb. And something happend with my skin on my right ring finger, so after the rest I was just slipping on my own blood. Personally a hard 9a in these conditions.
What is next?
I would like to climb some 8a-8c during the last week and maybe check the moves something harder for the next trip.
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