Leo Bøe does F-k the system (9a) and one more 8c+

Leo Bøe 🍄, who two days ago sent Fabela pa la enmienda (9a), has had another burst of productivity in Santa Linya doing Fuck The system (9a) as well as Travers de la enmiend (8c+). (c) Emile Pino

Can you tell us more about that amazing day?
When walking to the cave yesterday I had no idea what the day would bring. The clouds that were promised on the forecast were not there and the sun was hitting hard. Warming up I told my friends today will be shit… Somehow and out of thin air the wind started blowing like crazy again just like the previous good days we had. The transition from being a bit grumpy and demotivated by the condies to being extremely psyched was instant and I jumped on one of my projects.

The route I was trying was «Traversa de la Enmienda» 8c+ has a savage mono which I passed, but then fell on the following move. I came down and basicly felt fresh even though I had burned some calories already. My next try I focused on shaking my right arm alot while hanging in the mono so that the next move would be easier. It worked and I quickly passed the crux and entered the last part which is fairly easier, but pumpy as hell. Somehow this time I did not get pumped.

I came down from the 50 meter route that traverses the whole roof with fresh forearms and I was thinking to myself that I’d maybe try my main project again as the condies also were insane. I had before my send on Enmiend also told my friend, Pol Ortiz, as a joke that I would send both my projects this day. It went from being a joke to something that could be reality!

I waited a couple hours and the wind was even stronger at this point. I jumped on Fuck the System 9a and the holds were super sticky, more than ever before… Even the kneebars felt better and I could relax and rest for less that half the time compared to previous rounds.

Eventually I reached the top where I had fallen off around 4-5 times before. I was nervous eyeing out the last hold, but somehow I stuck the big move and could clip the chains!

I was super happy to send these two routes in a day and it might be my best climbing day in terms of sensations. I was feeling like I was in my best shape ever. Now I can move on to other harder lines maybe. Not entirely sure what I’ll invest my time into the next weeks, but I will for sure keep on climbing hard stuff since I’m ultra psyched !! 🤙🤙🤙