6 September 2015

First 9a by Erik Grandelius after reading a book

Erik Grandelius seems to be in the best shape of his life, having onsighed two 8b's and done his first 9a, Cabane au Canada in Rawyl. "We spent two weeks in Switzerland. The first day I realized that I was in good shape as I surprised myself by falling at the chains on the onsight of Paradis Articifiel 8c. We stayed another two days in Rawyl but then it became to warm (even though it is at 2000 meters) so we went to Gastlosen for a week. When we came back I sent the Cabane au Canada the first day on the second try. Altogether I made six tries over three days. I feel that I have reached a deeper focus in my climbing, especially the last four days of the trip I dwelved into an almost meditative state as soon as a tied in, even on warm-ups. During the trip a was reading "Das Glasperlenspiel" by Herman Hesse and it made a great impression on my climbing. The great spiritual and intellectual discipline and the strong organization in the fictional Kastilien became an inspiration for me. I also feel that climbing hard in the alps also requires a great deal of organization and discipline as you have to time the weather, the resting, the nutrition and mental state perfectly.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
18 March 2026

Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions

Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
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Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)

Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
23 March 2026

Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia

Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
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Related
25 March 2011

Do not trust 8a news because they are personal

Debate/Jens: Erik Grandelius repeated a confirmed 8B+ in Sweden giving it a personal grade of 8A+, which is actually his first 8A+. "It would be nice to believe that I could do an 8B+ in three hours but that is just totally absurd." By checking old published boulder news it is getting clearer by thโ€ฆ
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9a by Seb Bouin in Flatanger
23 August 2013

9a by Seb Bouin in Flatanger

Erik Grandelius, who lately has done two 8c+ in Flatanger, reports that Seb Bouin has done A Little Badder 9a in Flatanger, after two weeks of projecting, whichโ€ฆ
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17 July 2012

Yet another 8c+ OS by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has onsighted yet another 8c+ in Flatanger, Muy Verdes which was bolted by Dani Andrada and the FA was done by Erik Grandelius. Instead of trying to do the FA, Adam did just wait until Erik projected it down after four days. Erik was just amazed after having seen him the first day in thโ€ฆ
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