25 March 2011
Do not trust 8a news because they are personal
Debate/Jens: Erik Grandelius repeated a confirmed 8B+ in Sweden giving it a personal grade of 8A+, which is actually his first 8A+. "It would be nice to believe that I could do an 8B+ in three hours but that is just totally absurd."
By checking old published boulder news it is getting clearer by the day that you should not trust them as they are personal.
Personally, this has been very frustrating for many years now and sometimes I have mentioned the fairy tale - The Emperor's new clothes and the Time Comparison Grading. This was dead wrong and the new concept is to just repeat, - Grades are personal and sometimes I give a hint to 8a members with the opposite opinion, "These days it's all about fluffing so you get paid. :P ha ha All the others do it!"
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Erik Grandelius, who lately has done two 8c+ in Flatanger, reports that Seb Bouin has done A Little Badder 9a in Flatanger, after two weeks of projecting, whichโฆ
6 September 2015
First 9a by Erik Grandelius after reading a book
Erik Grandelius seems to be in the best shape of his life, having onsighed two 8b's and done his first 9a, Cabane au Canada in Rawyl.
"We spent two weeks in Sโฆ
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Yet another 8c+ OS by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has onsighted yet another 8c+ in Flatanger, Muy Verdes which was bolted by Dani Andrada and the FA was done by Erik Grandelius. Instead of trying to do the FA, Adam did just wait until Erik projected it down after four days.
Erik was just amazed after having seen him the first day in thโฆ
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