
5 November 2013
Daniel Woods commenta il suo nuovo (e forse piรน duro) 8C, dei 19 saliti.
Daniel Woods ha liberato la sit di The Ice Knife, che ritiene il piรน duro dei 19 passi di 8C da lui saliti. Il primo lo ha chiuso 5 anni fa, a 18 anni, e da allora รจ stato uno dei boulderisti piรน performanti al mondo e il primo del ranking di 8a.
"La battaglia รจ finalmente conclusa! 13 giorni di tentativi, lottando con le condizioni meteo e cadendo praticamente a ogni movimento (compreso il movimento finale di 6A), pieno di dubbi se ce l'avrei fatta ancora di quest'anno. Dave ha liberato la stand 2 anni fa ed รจ ora considerato un duro 8B+. La sit aggiunge 4 movimenti duri e disagevoli, direi un 8A+ che si connette all'8B+ senza riposi.
Lo stile del blocco รจ differente da tutto ciรฒ che ho provato finora. Le prese richiedono buona aderenza, i movimenti sono strani e di equilibrio. Il passaggio nel complesso รจ stupendo, e ora la linea รจ completa. Penso sia il problema piรน difficile che ho salito finora, ed รจ nel mio stile di scalata. Dare un grado รจ difficile, soggettivo, magari per altri non sarebbe cosรฌ estremo. Ma io so che per me รจ il mio personal best finora e mi fermo qua nel giudizio." Video del passo stand (c) Beau Kahler
Dopo aver discusso con Daniel diverse volte delle gradazioni dei blocchi estremi e di "cosa" significhi 8C+ boulder, ci pare di capire che per lui il grado in sรฉ non sia cosรฌ importante, senza citare la vecchia storia dell'inflazione dei gradi boulder. I top climbers stimano Daniel, senza bisogno che si discuta dei gradi, e parecchi dei suoi blocchi รจ possibile che si trovino giร nella "zona" dell'8C+. Con questo passaggio probabilmente siamo ancora piรน vicini. Sarebbe interessante sapere cosa pensa del confronto di questo e altri suoi top boulders con Gioia, a Varazze, forse l'unico 8C+ confermato al mondo. Comunque ottimo lavoro Daniel, continua cosรฌ.
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