7 June 2022

Carlo Traversi sends Magic Line 8c+ trad

Carlo Traversi did Magic Line (8c+) in Yosemite (CA) three months ago. Ron Kauk did the "pinkpoint" (gear preplaced) FA in 1996, suggesting 8c. The first repeat was done by his son Lonnie in 2016. Two years later, he did the clean FA placing the gear on lead and upgrading it to 8c+. There are only three other 8c+ trad routes (excluding some contrived ones) in the world and a potential 9a (Tribe). With Meltdown, Traversi is the only one having done two. He has also done several 8C boulders and last year he repeated his first 9b.

In other words, Carlo is one of the very few climbers that have sent world class grades in all three disciplines.

What about your tick list on big walls and DWS?
Hardest big wall would probably be Magic Mushroom 7c+ on the Eiger although I donโ€™t really consider that noteworthy. More of a fun, not so difficult climb. I have been working on the Dihedral Wall on El Cap the last few winters but the weather hasnโ€™t lined up for a proper attempt. Iโ€™ve done a bunch of DWS competitions but very little DWS on rock. Hoping to change that this Fall.
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