Magic Line 8c+ trad by Carlo Traversi

Carlo Traversi has done Magic Line (8c+) in Yosemite (CA). Ron Kauk did the "pinkpoint" (gear preplaced) FA in 1996, suggesting 8c. The first repeat was done by his son Lonnie in 2016. Two years later, he did the clean FA placing the gear on lead and upgrading it to 8c+. There are only three other 8c+ trad routes (excluding some contrived ones) in the world and a potential 9a (Tribe). With Meltdown, Traversi is the only one having done two. He has also done several 8C boulders and last year he repeated his first 9b.

Can you tell us a little bit about the process of taking down Magic Line?
It took some days to get beta and gear sorted. Fell once at the top, rested a week, then went back and climbed it. It was about 6 sessions this year, although I’d tried it some days in 2017 and a few days over the past few years.

What about the protection? Is it totally safe?
It’s pretty safe as far as hard trad goes. I never pulled a piece and never got close to hitting the ground.

What is next?
Headed to Switzerland next week to rage on the blocs.

Which discipline do you like the most?
I just love rock climbing in all its forms. Each discipline is special in its own way. Bouldering is the purest fun. Haven’t done much DWS. I’ve done a ton of multi-pitch climbing but haven’t really pushed my limit there. Definitely planning a Mallorca (DWS) trip for this year.

How do you keep warm during cold conditions?
To warm my hands up I would usually grab a nearby piece of rock on the ground until my hands started to go numb and then let go and the blood would slowly start flowing in. Then I would jump on the climb. I think it’s called “cold induced vasodilation”. Usually, once I do this my hands stay warm for a long time.