
Brian Squire sends Paint it Black (8C)
Can you tell us more about the process of climbing this line?
To be honest, wasn’t really too much of a process, planned to come out here for a little while to try to send and then just did it first go. Parked the car at 9am warmed up on it and then was back at the whip and driving out by 10. Tried it once last year but then got rained out for the rest of the season. It’s gotta be one of the best anywhere, perfect start holds, unreal wide pinches at the bottom and some techy core tension straight out the prow of a jutting roof over the river. I used a little different beta than everyone else to my knowledge. The crux revolves around a left foot switch from a heel hook to a toe, then you do a difficult left hand flip to a terrible sloping pinch where most of the weight is in the thumb. I switched my heel to a toe earlier in the boulder so the heel to toe switch wasn’t difficult and that way worked very well for me. I also managed to squeeze my way up Zef (8B+) the day before as a pit stop on the drive out as well which was a good confidence booster.
Elias Iagnemma FA’s The Big Slamm (9A)
Elias Iagnemma, who last year sent Burden of Dreams (9A), reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of The Big Slamm (9A). "It is incredible how it is a prec…
Alex Megos reports on Instagram that after a disappointing performance at the Olympics, he traveled to Flatanger and in just five sessions he was able to compl…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Paint in Black 8C by Noah Wheeler
Noah Wheeler has done Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). "Surprised myself with a send of this one after 5 days off from the flu. One of the most technical (that…
Paint it Black 8C by Austin Purdy
Austin Purdy has done Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). Interestingly, in the end it came down to some fingernails optimization that Austin describes below. Pre…
Ben Blackmore does Paint it Black (8C)
Ben Blackmore, with ten 8B+’ under his belt, has repeated Daniel Woods’ classical 65 degrees roof Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). ” Oh my god still can’t bel…
Paint in Black 8C by Noah Wheeler
Noah Wheeler has done Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). "Surprised myself with a send of this one after 5 days off from the flu. One of the most technical (that…
Paint it Black 8C by Austin Purdy
Austin Purdy has done Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). Interestingly, in the end it came down to some fingernails optimization that Austin describes below. Pre…
Ben Blackmore does Paint it Black (8C)
Ben Blackmore, with ten 8B+’ under his belt, has repeated Daniel Woods’ classical 65 degrees roof Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). ” Oh my god still can’t bel…
Adam Ondra ticks Soudain Seul (9A) and flashes 8B+
Adam Ondra reports on his website that he has repeated Soudain seul (9A) in Fontainebleau, in just five sessions. The next day he flashed Ubik assis (8B) and La…
Seb Berthe completes The Dawn Wall (9a) MP
Sebastien Berthe has repeated the 32 pitches The Dawnwall (9a) on El Cap in Yosemite. Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson put it up in 2015 after projecting it fo…
Will Bosi completes Excalibur (9b+)
William Bosi has made the first repeat of Stefano Ghisolfi’s Excalibur (9b+) in Arco. Excalibur climbs a 40-degree overhanging wall in Drena, near Arco. Initial…