Vertical-Life
Beginning 9a+ by Gio Placci
"Too many tries ...... Amazing route to try. First real project of my life. This year went down in 4 days after I tried it 20 days last year 😅 The knee bar that Adam do it’s hard and too long for me ✌️."
How was it projecting it for so long?
I had no experience with “projecting” hard routes. My approach was completely wrong 😂. Instead of trying the sequence and spending time finding the best betas, I started immediately to try it from the ground, after checking the moves 3-4 tries. This approach le❌me to fail. I changed my betas during that time many times and even after 20 days of tries I did not send it. This winter, after my best comp season so far, my priority was to finish the business, my shape was good and even on the first tries of this year, the feelings were great! I needed just another 3 days of tries to send it 🤯, it felt amazing. I have learned a lot about “the art of projecting “ with this route, and now I’m ready for more!
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Gio Placci has made a quick ascent of The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano, which in practice is a sit start to The Dagger. "8B+, after having done The Dagger, it took me just 2 hours to send the whole line, so I’m sure it is not 8C." Gio says that the left kneebar right at the start of 2 Worlds …
Gio Placci completes 4-Lo (8C)
Gio Placci, who did four 9a+' in 2022, has repeated Daniel Woods’ 4-Lo (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Soft with the new beta. Three days of tries. Really fun climb.”(c)…
Gio Placci does Captain Nemo (8C) and The New Abnormal (8B+)
Gio Placci has done The New Abnormal (8B+) and Captain Nemo (8C) in Valle Bavona. “Such a gem! Shout out to my blood bro Pietro Vidi for the FA. Captain Nemo …
Gio Placci has made a quick ascent of The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano, which in practice is a sit start to The Dagger. "8B+, after having done The Dagger, it took me just 2 hours to send the whole line, so I’m sure it is not 8C." Gio says that the left kneebar right at the start of 2 Worlds …
Gio Placci completes 4-Lo (8C)
Gio Placci, who did four 9a+' in 2022, has repeated Daniel Woods’ 4-Lo (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Soft with the new beta. Three days of tries. Really fun climb.”(c)…
Gio Placci does Captain Nemo (8C) and The New Abnormal (8B+)
Gio Placci has done The New Abnormal (8B+) and Captain Nemo (8C) in Valle Bavona. “Such a gem! Shout out to my blood bro Pietro Vidi for the FA. Captain Nemo …
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…