Alex Ventajas does Beginning (9a+)

Alex Ventajas, with 17 routes 9a or 9a+ under his belt, has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi’s Beginning (9a+) in Arco. ”Another incredible route unlocked! I think one of most logical line in the sector. Amazing climb shared with great friends 💪🏻”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
This line caught my attention from the very first time I visited the Eremo di San Paolo. Even though it’s the combination of two different routes, it stands out as one of the most logical and aesthetic lines in the sector. Maybe it was exactly its beauty that kept me motivated, even when it felt out of reach.

The line links the most demanding sections of two of the classic routes in the sector: “St. Anger” and “Zauberfee” (both graded 8c+/9a), which I had climbed in 2024 and 2022 respectively. The connection is made through a new central sequence that’s extremely physical and intense, requiring a lot of body tension. “Beginning” it’s a complete and complex route: extremely varied, but at the same time with a constant intensity all the way up to the anchor, which demands both solid endurance and very precise management of your climbing. The first part is rather aggressive, followed by a section that’s both physical and technical, a difficult rest, a final boulder problem followed by an endurance run on bad open-handed holds.

I started trying the route in the winter of 2024 together with two close friends, Luca Bertacco and Alessandro Larcher. It was a super motivating team experience! We pushed each other during those cold December days, between laughs, slices of pizza, and worn-out skin. Unfortunately, the low temperatures made it impossible to give 100%; even during the best tries, our fingers were freezing so much that we couldn’t even feel the holds. Up until December 31st, I Have never even managed to reach the rest point before the final crux, so I decided, with a bit of regret, to put the project on hold for a while.

As April started, I felt like “Beginning” was calling me back, and I knew it was time to try it again. After a first go, which was a bit of a struggle as I had to rediscover the right footwork on the first quickdraws, I quickly found a good rhythm, and, in just a few more tries I finally reached that long-awaited final rest! Right away I felt comfortable with the moves and the holds, and my motivation shot through the roof! I came back for three consecutive days, and I was so motivated I barely felt the fatigue. On the third go of the third day, I finally stuck the last boulder problem after the final rest. I felt full of energy so I could climb the last section completely focused and precise. Clipping the anchor was an unexplainable great feeling! I can honestly say I’m really happy I have never fallen on the final endurance section! What I value the most from this whole journey is the mindset I had managing the progression on the project and the moments I shared with the friends who were part of it, from the first attempts to the victory photo! (c) Crimp-Films