11 November 2025
Alex Megos updates his logbook + interview
Alex Megos, one of the best climbers in the world the last 15 years, has added all his hardest ascents to his logbook. The 32-year-old won six consecutive European Lead Youth Cups in 2009, and in 2017 he was runner-up in the European Boulder Championships, his first IFSC competition in five years. The following year, the German won a Lead World Cup and earned a bronze medal at the World Championships. In 2023, he had his best senior competition year ever, being runner-up in the Lead World Cup and getting the bronze in the World Championship.
Outdoors, he became the first ever to onsight a 9a in 2013 with Estado critico (9a) and he has completed three 9b+โ.
Can you tell us more about Frei am Fels?
Iโve been contacted my an agency regarding the book back in 2020, but I told them Iโm too young for a biography. I told them to contact me again in a few years. They did! After listening to what the process would look like I thought it could actually be quite interesting and I agreed. Itโs mostly a biography about my climbing life, how I started climbing, my big achievements, but also the ups and downs of my life as well as the struggles.
What is your driving force and how has this changed over time?
My driving force still is the love for climbing. That has never changed. But was has changed is my willingness to try routes regardless of the outcome.
How have your 2025 season been and what are your plans for 2026?
2025 was not what great on the competition side of things. The two world cups I did both went terrible [17 & 21]. Outdoors it was a bit of a different game. It was not great, but also not too bad. The FA of El Taureg Blanco (9b) and Le Grand saccage (9a+) were probably two of the biggest achievements this year, but I also found a bunch of new projects Iโm psyched for!
Ah yeah! Plans for 2026 are focus on outdoors. Try a couple of projects in the Frankenjura, probably also get back on B.I.G and maybe explore some other areas with projects.
What are the three best advices you can give to the youngsters pushing hard?
1. Donโt get injured. That it always a big setback in training
2. (unfortunately) rest is often more useful than harmful.
3. Fun is the core.
Outdoors, he became the first ever to onsight a 9a in 2013 with Estado critico (9a) and he has completed three 9b+โ.
Can you tell us more about Frei am Fels?
Iโve been contacted my an agency regarding the book back in 2020, but I told them Iโm too young for a biography. I told them to contact me again in a few years. They did! After listening to what the process would look like I thought it could actually be quite interesting and I agreed. Itโs mostly a biography about my climbing life, how I started climbing, my big achievements, but also the ups and downs of my life as well as the struggles.
What is your driving force and how has this changed over time?
My driving force still is the love for climbing. That has never changed. But was has changed is my willingness to try routes regardless of the outcome.
How have your 2025 season been and what are your plans for 2026?
2025 was not what great on the competition side of things. The two world cups I did both went terrible [17 & 21]. Outdoors it was a bit of a different game. It was not great, but also not too bad. The FA of El Taureg Blanco (9b) and Le Grand saccage (9a+) were probably two of the biggest achievements this year, but I also found a bunch of new projects Iโm psyched for!
Ah yeah! Plans for 2026 are focus on outdoors. Try a couple of projects in the Frankenjura, probably also get back on B.I.G and maybe explore some other areas with projects.
What are the three best advices you can give to the youngsters pushing hard?
1. Donโt get injured. That it always a big setback in training
2. (unfortunately) rest is often more useful than harmful.
3. Fun is the core.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
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24 November 2022
Estado Critico 9a by Darius Rapa (16)
Darius Rapa, who last year did his first 9a and won one Euro Youth Cup, has done Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. "Sooo damn happy to clip the chain on this 35 mโฆ
21 January 2023
Is onsight climbing on life support?
During the last few years, we have seen plenty of advancement when it comes to redpointing ability globally. In just the last three years, we saw close to 150 9a+ ascents which can be compared to only ten 9a+ ascents per year, last decade.
Ten years ago, Alex Megos onsighted Estado critico (9a) butโฆ
14 November 2023
Eliรกลก Kysela, 17, does Estado Critico (9a)
Eliรกลก Kysela, who last month did his first 9a, has sent Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. Last summer, the 17-year-old did his first 8c, and now 16 months later hโฆ
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24 November 2022
Estado Critico 9a by Darius Rapa (16)
Darius Rapa, who last year did his first 9a and won one Euro Youth Cup, has done Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. "Sooo damn happy to clip the chain on this 35 mโฆ
21 January 2023
Is onsight climbing on life support?
During the last few years, we have seen plenty of advancement when it comes to redpointing ability globally. In just the last three years, we saw close to 150 9a+ ascents which can be compared to only ten 9a+ ascents per year, last decade.
Ten years ago, Alex Megos onsighted Estado critico (9a) butโฆ
14 November 2023
Eliรกลก Kysela, 17, does Estado Critico (9a)
Eliรกลก Kysela, who last month did his first 9a, has sent Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. Last summer, the 17-year-old did his first 8c, and now 16 months later hโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ