Is onsight climbing on life support?
EDITORIAL
21 January 2023
Ten years ago, Alex Megos onsighted Estado critico (9a) but since then only a dozen 8c's have been onsighted if we exclude Adam Ondra, who has onsighted 47 routes 8c to 9a since 2013. Global female climbing has been following a similar trend. 9a redpoints have become much more frequent but 8b, or harder, onsights are very rare.
When the 8a logbook was introduced in 2000, we wanted to motivate climbers to onsight routes, and in the scorecard you score almost three grades higher for an onsight compared to a redpoint. Our feeling has always been that onsighting, albeit not always perfectly fluid and sometimes as nerve-wracking as taking a penalty spot kick, is fundamental to enjoying climbing and a critical part of the climbing experience. The benefits of onsight climbing, especially for younger climbers, have been stated here and elsewhere so often that there's no need to go back over them. At this point, it could perhaps even be argued that younger climbers are keeping onsighting alive since onsight ability still determines who wins a lead comp. Although, even among this group, it seems like there's a trend of focusing on onsight climbing in the gym and allocating significantly more time spent at the crag to redpointing.
Another factor to consider is that, in our digital world, video is killing the onsight star. With film of so many climbs at one's fingertips, onsighting is becoming more difficult to claim and relies even more heavily on one's honesty. Yet, even if we take the digital revolution into account, flash climbing hasn't filled the gap. In the 8a database, there are only two 8c+ flashes since Ondra flashed Super Crackinette (9a+) in 2018.
In order to keep the spirit of, let's call it, first try climbing alive, we're wondering if we should re-evaluate and give even more incentive to onsighting and flashing? We look forward to your thoughts.
MOST COMMENTED
5 May 2022
DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin
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Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)
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Estado Critico 9a by Darius Rapa (16)
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RELATED NEWS
24 November 2022
Estado Critico 9a by Darius Rapa (16)
Darius Rapa, who last year did his first 9a and won one Euro Youth Cup, has done Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. "Sooo damn happy to clip the chain on this 35 mâŠ
26 January 2022
Estado Critico 9a by Marco Zanone
Marco Zanone, who just did his first 9a+, has done Estado critico (9a) and Llamps i trons (8c+) in Siurana. (c) Esteban Lahoz "Estado Critico is a well-known râŠ
21 February 2022
Two 9a's by Jorge Diaz-Rullo again
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done Last Night (9a) and Estado critico (9a), out of the latter he thinks is 8c+/9a. The 22-year-old has now done 54 routes 8c+/9a and harder which puts him as #8 on that list. In the 8a ranking game, the Spaniard is #2 after Adam Ondra. Interview from last week - Do not obsess âŠ
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5 May 2022
DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin
Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done three 9b/+, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of DNA 9c in Verdon. "I'm happy to have completed this project. AfâŠ
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Sebastien BOUIN has done the FA of the long-standing project Jumbo Love (9b) direct start, calling it SuprĂȘme Jumbo Love 9b+ at Clark Mountain. (c) Clarisse BomâŠ