Agora 8b+ by Geila Macia (13)

Monday, 12 April

Geila Macia, daughter to famous Spanish climbers Berta Martin and Israel Gacia, has done her first 8b+ as well as her fourth 8b, Brujo in Sadernes. Berta, several times Spanish Champion as well World Cup semifinalist, gives us the story.

"It was my first 8b+ too. It is not one hard so much more endurance with some of cruxes. I knew it would be a good route for her size being still 13-year-old. She could do all the moves on the first try. Even at the end of the route, from the last quickdraw, she went straight because she was afraid of a long fall. I must say she found a harder beta just to go straight. On her fourth day of attempts, she fell there in the end being exhausted. The next day, she warmed up and found better feet to not fall again, even though she was feeling so nervous and tired because it was 3rd day on a row in the route. She said it was impossible to finish the last part to the anchor and I just told her to not be stressed or nervous and we could come back after a rest day. - Go and try to make a good endurance try and keep going... and she did it.

After a day of rest. We climbed a little more in some other areas she did an 8b in just four in a day, Brujo. It was her fastest 8b ever."

How does the family train and is Geila strongest in the family now?
We are both training together between 3/4 days every week and also try to go outside rock climbing. She can train all days, I don't. Those days, I am just her trainer. I can try 8b but I’m not as strong as her. She can train in all kind of boulder but I can’t try those kind of parcuour ones. She is the strongest in the family now. Her father doesn’t train just climb in the weekends.

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