18 June 2021

Orion 8b+ by Geila Macia (13)

Geila Macia, daughter to famous Spanish climbers Berta Martin and (c) Israel Macia, has done her second 8b+, Orion in Sadernes. "It is a long steep route on crimps and some slopy holds. There is a first section with non-stop climbing till a kind of a good rest before the crux. It is very powerful on some bad edges, a hard clip, and a long move from a very slopy hold to a small vertical crimp. Then just easy climbing. The weekend before I couldnโ€™t climb until the rest but I could link all the hard moves in a row so I felt excited because I knew that I could reach the resting holds."

So you are strongest in your family now and what are your summer plans?
My mum is trying an 8b next to this route. She could climb it with one fall... This summer we will travel around Europe if the Covid situation alow us and Iโ€™m going to participate in Tout a Bloc in July.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Berta Martinhas done Pati pa mi, 8b in Siurana. Here is an interview with Berta
23 December 2008

Berta Martin - Interview

Berta Martin who has been one of the most successful Spanish climbers the last 10 years, has become a new 8a member.Here is an interview.
Daila Ojeda reports from a Boulder comp in Lledia which ended 04.30 in the morning. 1. Daila Ojeda/Berta Martin - Chris Sharma 2. Dani Andrada 3. Sara Aicart & Edu Marin