NEWS

NUMBERS

15 August 2012

Two 8B+'s in a day by Dave Graham

Dave Graham has had another amazing day in Rocklands when he did two 8B+'s, Sky and Derailed. "Very proud of this day! Maybe my best ever? Double take-downs days with your projects RULZ!!!!" The day after he did one 8A and one 8A+ meaning that he has now done some 320 boulders 8A+ and harder which should make him#1 in the world in that category and he is also #1 when it comes to FA's. more info pica and videos at Island.io


9a again by Daniel Jung

NUMBERS

15 August 2012

9a again by Daniel Jung

Daniel Jung has done his sixth 9a, Kick ass in Gorges du Loup. "Last year Kick Ass kicked my ass. This year I returned to kick the ass of Kick Ass!" More info at his blog. The good news is that he has had more or less a straight progress for ten years.


NUMBERS

14 August 2012

O futuro e a normatização da escalada na Serra do Cipó

A AESC- Associação de Escaladores da Serra do Cipó, em parceria com o Clube Montins, Acesso MG e AME (entidades filiadas à FEMEMG) convida a comunidade de escaladores e montanhistas para evento sobre: O futuro e a normatização da escalada na Região da Serra do Cipó, a ser realizado no dia 18 de agosto de 2012 (Sábado) às 19:30h na Associação Comunitária da Serra do Cipó. A temática principal do evento é a importância, futuro e organização da escalada na Região da Serra do Cipó em especial a APA Morro da Pedreira/ICMBio. Fonte: 4CLIMB.


NUMBERS

14 August 2012

8A+ again by Samuel Hammer (14)

Samuel Hammer has done Hottentotti assis, 8A+ and Unusual suspect, 8A in Espoo in Finland.


NUMBERS

13 August 2012

Adidas Rockstar

1. Alex Puccio - Sean McColl 2. Akiyo Noguchi - Jon Cardwell 3. Juliane Wurm - Guillaume Glarion Mondet Full report with amazing pictures The starting list was amazing almost like a World Cup so the result for Jon Cardwell was a nice surprice. Complete results


Brasileiro de Boulder 2012 – 3ª Etapa

NUMBERS

13 August 2012

Brasileiro de Boulder 2012 – 3ª Etapa

Os Campeonatos Brasileiros de Boulder e Slackline 2012 serão realizados em Belo Horizonte, nos dias 25 e 26 de agosto, na Praça do Papa, no bairro Mangabeiras. As inscrições para os atletas de Boulder serão realizadas neste site e para os atletas de Slackline serão realizadas no dia do evento. Mais informações no site da 4CLIMB.


NUMBERS

13 August 2012

8b+ again by Mirko Caballero (11)

Mirko Caballero has done Ixeia, 8b (+) in Rodellar. "My 2nd 8b+!!! Very different from my first one. This was a long 35m (115 feet) overhung pump fest... I had to wait 6 days for it to get dry after the big storm, but still had to change some of my sequence as some holds were still wet... I can't believe it, last year I sent my first and only 7c+, and this year I have already sent 15 7c+ to 8b+.


Share your ascents on Facebook

EDITORIAL

13 August 2012

Share your ascents on Facebook

You can now share all your recorded ascents on your Facebook wall. Just go to your scorecard or log-book and click on the FB icon. Try it out and give opinions on how to improve the feature. In the next week, the Android 8A Topo will be launched. The big project is to turn this into a world wide topo including possibilities to draw topos including GPS positions.


Pouvreau OS of MP Alibaba, 8a+

NUMBERS

13 August 2012

Pouvreau OS of MP Alibaba, 8a+

Gérôme Pouvreau reports that he has onsighted all the 8 pitches of Alibaba at Aiglun; 8a, 8a, 7b+, 8a, 8a+, 8a+, 8a+ and 7b+. A few days later the route saw it's second female ascent by Florence Pinét (first by Nina Caprez). In 2001, he was the Lead World Champion, in 2004, Gérôme was #6 in the Lead World Cup and in 2006, he was #4 in the Boulder World Cup. He has previously done several 9a's.


Verhoeven: DO NOT change the core of a sport just because the olympics

EDITORIAL

13 August 2012

Verhoeven: DO NOT change the core of a sport just because the olympics

Jorg Verhoeven, who is one of the best in all disciplines from bouldering to establich multi-pitches on loose terrain in the Alps, won the Lead World Cup in 2008 and also the last event in Imst. In between he have had problems with his back having done only half of the WC's being mainly #5 to #11. Being a fast climber, what do you think about the new Time rule? "I've always said that in difficulty time should NOT be a factor for splitting ties. It's true that I climb fast, so this rule could favor me, but I still strongly disagree. Since I do not work with the IFSC anymore my opinion doesn't matter of course, but if you want to hear: I'm very sad about the current changing in rules, since it affects the competitions more than most people think, and not in a good way. If people want time to count, do either speed or make a new discipline (Duel or Splead) but DO NOT change the core of a sport just because the olympics wouldn't like the chance of a tied first place (there's better options to solve this problem). Deleting the 'Minus' together with this new time rule is like throwing fuel on a burning car, but nobody thought of that prior to changing the rules in spite of an athlete commission and rules commission saying it's a mistake.