6 February 2014

How much do you need to rest?

Adam Ondra is known for resting extremely long in between attempts although he should have a very good blood circulation in his forearms, getting out the lactic acid faster than most. At the same time, you often hear about top climbers who climb and perform seven days in a row especially in bouldering, if your skin is OK. In general, the better trained and the more years you have climbed, the less you need to rest. The simple rule is that you do not need to rest as long as your performance is not dropping. Once the performance goes down you need to rest longer in between attempts or having a rest day. In other words, a boulderer need to rest less compared to a route climber who always fights with lactic acid. Once you have become super pumped you probably have just one or two good attempts left that day and after several burns, a rest day is needed. It is also important to understand, especially for the less experienced, that resting more will reduce the risk of injuries.
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