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Top-10 climbing videos  Facebook
 

Top-10 climbing videos

 
 
Top-10 most difficult routes  (115) Facebook
 

In the yearbook we will try to rank the most difficult Routes & Boulders in the world. We will present them with detailed info, quotations from the FA and pictures. Of course it is a suggested and a speculative ranking and feel free to comment before deadline.
Jumbo Love 9b, Akira 9b, Es Pontas 9b, Salamandre 9b, Golpe de Estado 9b, Delicuente Natural Extension 9b, Open Air 9a+, Corona 9a+, Coup de Grace 9a+ and Overshadow 9a+.

 
 
Updated Climber of the year list  Facebook
 

But it is not final Come with comments, we are closing it for the yearbook - January 15th. And do not forget, lists like these are just for fun. Do not take them seriously ;)

 
 
Tick List/Projects 2009  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePaul Robinson has put together his Tick List 2009. To keep track of all the climbs you plan to do 2009, you can add them into the special "projects" data base.

MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR

Click on the picture to see what you will get from Santa Claus

 
 
8A Aipad becomes Winter protection  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSome 20 8A Airpads was last week put up on the Ice Arena in Göteborg. As the 8A Airpad become to expensive, the producer has found a more lucrative market and the idea might work also as a safety solution for downhill skiing.

8a sold the Airpad for between 365 - 399 Euro included freight and we continously receive good feedback. However, it was not viable to sell under 465 - 500 Euro and this was the main reason why we stoped selling it.

 
 
Snow in Catalonia  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMany of the best climbers in the world are spending the Christmas vacation in Catalonia, "the centre of Universe for climbing in the world". However, spanish newspaper report that they have the worst weather conditions for 50 years with snow and storms and up to 11 degrees minus.

 
 
8B & 5 Boulders 8A+ by James Webb  (2) Facebook
 

James Webb has done five 8A+'s and Crown of Aragorn, 8B during the last week. Based from his trend diagram, James has not been climbing hard so many years and he sure is increasing his standards.

 
 
Final call for pictures  Facebook
 

In the last call for pictures for the 8a yearbook, we are looking for area pictures for Zillertal, Rocklands, Bishop, Hueco Tanks and Railay.

We are also looking for pics for the hardest, The 8a to 8c+ and the 8A to 8B+, most popular climbs in the world. Send it to Poa@8a.nu

 
 
8B+ by Daniel Woods (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has done his 10th 8B+ in 2008, Wood Grain Grippin in HCR. The world ranking leader has also done 25 8B's this year.

 
 
Rio de Janeiro  Facebook
 

Caio Tombini has helped us with an article of Rio de Janeiro - 500 multi-pitches, sport climbing and bouldering in the city!

 
 
Batman climbing!  (1) Facebook
 

In the Blue Mountains topo, you find many Batman symbols meaning that you should actually preclip and start from the first bolt. In many other parts of the world, piles of stone have been built to reach the first good holds.

In Céüse there is a classic route with actually one batman grade and another grade from the start. Probably there are more and maybe it is a good idea to have more Batman grades when the crux is actually lifting your feet from the ground?

 
 
Most inspiring pictures of November.  (2) Facebook
 

It´s an honor to present the most inspiring pictures of November, enjoy them here!

 
 
Berta Martin - Interview  Facebook
 

Berta Martin who has been one of the most successful Spanish climbers the last 10 years, has become a new 8a member.Here is an interview.

 
 
Who has FA of the best climbs?  (6) Facebook
 

These are the most popular climbs in the 8a data base and they will be listed in the yearbook. Who has done the First Ascents for the best climbs in the world?
7c Vagabond d'occident, 7a+ Toma castañazo, 7a+ Billy el rapido, 7a Babes in Thailand, 7a+ Lal Bab, 7a+ DNA, 7a Poema de Roca, 7b+ Pince sans rire, 7b+ Blocage violent, 7c+ Mirage, 7b Super Mickey, 7b+ Bistec de biceps, 7a+ La petite illusion, 7b Lapinerie, 7b Ivi.

7A Cortomaltese, 7A Le Toit du Cul de Chien, 7A Graviton,
6A La Marie Rose, 7B+ Carnage, 7A La Joker, 7C Soul Slinger, 7A The Hulk, 7B+ Mushroom Roof, 7A Jet Set, Sabots
7B High Plains Drifter, 7A Holey Moley, 7C Worm World Cave,
6C Lobster Claw, 7C La Bérézina, 5C Nobody Here Gets Out Alive, 7A+ Daily Dick Dose, 7A+ High Plains Drifter, 7C Supernova, 7A Babar

 
 
8B + 8c + 9a = 9????  (23) Facebook
 

It seems that setting and explaining grades is becoming a math science. One example is 8b + 9a + 8c+ + 8a = 9b for Jumbo Love. Dani Andrada is also into this explaining and setting grades with his calculator and sometimes crux sections are explained with boulder grades, i.e. 8a + 8B + 7C = 9a Sometimes ideas even go further, "two boulder problems of the same grade equates to one boulder problem of the grade +2." What do you think?

 
 
Another new 8a record - The 9b Sharma effect  Facebook
 

Yesterday, 5 649 unique computers made 26 556 visits on the Global page. In total, close to 9 000 different computers visited 8a over 24 hours. In December 46 290 unique computers have paid us a visit. (The official Google statistics shows on an average 35 % higher numbers)./J

 
 
The old time First Ascent heroes?  (26) Facebook
 

Who has put up the most repeted/the classic hard core routes and boulders in the world? We all know that Dani Andrada has been like a robot with his Hilti for 15 years and the same goes for Fred Nicole and his brush.

The other most active hard core guys in the 90-ies and the 80-ies might be: Jacky Godoffe, Alex Huber, Wolfgang Gullich, Ron Kauk, Lynn Hill, Tony Yaniro, JB Tribout, Ben Moon, Patrick Edlinger, Marc Menestrel. Any more names of old time hard core FA heroes? (Later we will also start looking for the heroes who has put up the most repeated boulder/routes from the 8a scorecard)./J

 
 
ICC ICE Climbing comps in 2009  Facebook
 

Let us see what the Global warming is up to...Markuz Lindgren has put together a small article with information.

 
 
8a Red Chilli T-shirt  Facebook
 

8a Red Chili T-shirt is availiable in the webshop for 29 Euro, included world wide freight, and you get a 8a cap for free.

 
 
The best allrounder  (20) Facebook
 

Trad, Sport, Boulder, Comp, Ice, Multi-pitch, Big wall, Alpinism are some of the disciplines in climbing. Very few combine four or more styles and here are some that would make it into the Top-10 list 2008. Any more suggestions?/J
Dave MacLeod, Alex Honnold, Alex Huber, Jenny Lavarda, Evgeny Krivosheytsev, Adam Ondra, David Lama, Jorg Verhoeven, Yuji Hirayama, Gareth Parry, Steve McClure, Martina Cufar, Alexandra Eyer, Nicolas Favresse, Josune Bereziartu, Beth Rodden, Ines Papert.

 
 
Lleida is the centre of the Universe  (1) Facebook
 

The crags around Lleida, 1.5 h west of Barcelona, are the most popular climbing destinations for the high-end climbers. Lleida is kind of a boring place in the middle of nowhere with absolutely no climbing nearby.
However, within 40 min to an 1 hour you reach many world class crags. One should know that Dani Andrada is the number one reason of this development and without him there would not be a epicentrum of the climbing Universe: Santa Linya, Oliana, Terradets, Disblia, Margalef, Siurana etc./J

 
 
Top-5 Climber of the year  Facebook
 

At the top of your presentation page, you may make your To-5 List.

 
 
The best tradclimbers in the world  (9) Facebook
 

Tradclimbers do not get as much credit and respect as they deserve. One of the reasons is that many often sand bags their ascent. Here is a list, what might be the Top-10 in the world 2008: Tommy Caldwell, Steph Davis, Nicolas Favresse, Alex Honnold, Alex Huber, Kevin Jorgeson, Dave Macleod, James Pearson, Ethan Pringle, Petter Restorp, Beth Rodden, Sonnie Trotter. Any more heroes?/Jens

 
 
The best english personal blogs  (13) Facebook
 

What do you think. 8a think these should be in the Top-10 list.
Dave MacLeod, Joey Kinder, Sean McColl, Jamie Emerson, Sonnie Trotter, Björn Pohl, Ethan Pringle, James Pearson, Climbing narcissist, Daila Ojeda

 
 
More pictures wanted  (3) Facebook
 

We have received more pictures than ever for the 8a yearbook which we are about to finalize. However, we are still looking for some pictures for specific areas. Please send them to poa@8a.nu. All contributers will receive yearbooks and a 8a cap.

Bouldering: Albaracin, Bishop, Joe's Valley, Kjugekull, Suamish and HP40.

Sport: Ceüse, El Chorro, Red River Gorge, Siurana, Railay
and Blue Mountains.

 
 
The hardest trad route/ascent in the world?  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAs it turns our that Rhapsody, 8c+ is an elimination of a variation, see and click on picture from Ukclimbing, we are looking for the new #1 trad in the world.

Knut Rokne has put together a comprehensive list. 8a only consider tradlines that has been climbed placing gear on lead as contendors for #1. It might be Metdown, 8c+ by Beth Rodden. (Below a further speculation of style and grades that in comparison to sport routes are sandbagged).

Echo Wall 8c+ Dave MacLeod, Elder Statesman 8c Steve McClure, Bellavista 8c Alex Huber, Cobra Crack 8c Sonnie Trotter/J

 
 
Female Climber of the year  (8) Facebook
 

"The nominees are":
Johanna Ernst (16) - Superior in the World Cup, European Champ
Akiyo Noguchi - Combined WC winner, 8b and 8A
Charlotte Durif - #1 in 8a ranking, #5 in Lead WC
Alex Johnson - #1 in Vail WC, #3 in 8a ranking
Alex Puccio, #1 in 8a ranking
Anna Stöhr - Superior in Boulder WC
Maja Vidmar - #2 i 8a ranking, #2 in World Cup
Natalija Gros - European Boulder Champ, #3 in Combined WC
Beth Rodden - Meltdown, 8c+ trad

 
 
Another 8b by Jarmila Tyrril  (8) Facebook
 

Jarmila Tyrril has done Mission to Mars, 8b and Don't belive the hype, 8b in Blue Mountains. For 2008 she has the ambition of doing 8c and do the summit of K2. So far, The Slovakian queen of Australia - interviewhas done 8b+ and a FA in Arctis, 4 895 m. Jarmila is #18 in the world but if we only count redpoint she is in the Top-10 list.

 
 
New records  Facebook
 

The new records for one week is 169 700 hits made by 23 374 computer on the Global page. In total, more than 30 000 computers visited 8a during seven days.

In November, 68 684 computers visited the Global page!

 
 
New potential GriGri accident  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture8a have received info that once the jacket squeezes in between the black locking devices of the GriGri, it might not lock the rope. Pay attention while wearing a jacket.

 
 
12 articles on injury and recovery  Facebook
 

Julian Saunders: Many of them have been published in Rock & Ice

 
 
British trad ethics = preplaced gear!?  (65) Facebook
 

The trad ethics used all over the globe is that you should place the gear on lead and if you fall you have to clean the route and start all over again.

However, the trad ethics in Britain allows you to take falls and continue with the preplaced gear once you have "down climbed" it before. You can always start top-roping the route on preplaced gear from the highest point you have downclimbed or even jumped down from.

A "ground-up" ascent can in fact mean that you top-rope the start based on your friends skill preplacing the gear. Is this top-ropeing ethics practiced in any other place in the world. Should it be considered as a valid trad ascents?/Jens

 
 
The fourth gripping position  (18) Facebook
 

Closed crimp, Open Crimp and Open Hand are the three well-known finger gripping techniques. However, as soon as the hold has a sharp 90 degrees angle and is 2 - 4 cm wide, you actually use a fourth position as you are hanging and pulling on your finger pads.

It works best on holds with friction and having thicker fingers pads. I might not feel natural for the strongest climbes as they always opt for a high finger position. The trick with "padding" is to use the lowest finger position as possible. Article with five positions/J

 
 
Climber of the 2008: Sharma or Ondra  (46) Facebook
 

8a is about to finalize the climber of the year list which will be presented in the 8a yearbook. Who should be #1? This year it is a duell between Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra.

Chris: Jumbo Love 9b FA, Papichulo 9a+, 5 more 9a's, 3 8c's onsight, #1 USA Lead, #1 DIMA.

Adam: #1 in the route ranking and the Combined world ranking. #1 in all the competitions he has done. Role model when it comes to ethics, suggesting up- and down gradings. Remarkable multi-pitch

 
 
15-year-old Adam Ondra #1  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is the new world ranking leader. the interesting thing is that he has had a continous progress since he become an 8a member in 2001, beeing nine years old. Based on the trend diagram he might be able to climb 9b and onsight 8c+ next year/J

 
 
High ball & DWS grading: 7A!!!  (9) Facebook
 

There is a huge different to do a 7A high ball boulder or a DWS if the crux is at the top or at the start. Whether the landing is good or bad is easy to understand but how likely are you to fall from the top? How easy is it to reverse to the safety/comfort zon? In some cases the topo gives info when the crux is at the top but it might be a good idea to add fixed symbols or letters like 7A! or 7A!!! etc. Do you have an idea or any experience of this? And just for your info, 8A give low priority for dangerous ascents/Jens

 
 
Interview with Miquel Riera  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe past september I was offered a short trip to inform of the Red Bull psicobloc event in Mallorca. There I met this kind of famous guy, first in Spain for many factors, then all over the world for probably being the first to pratice and export the deep water soloing plus appearing in his friend's biographic film, King Lines.

Personally, I enjoyed every minute I spent with him, so hopefully you'll do the same with this interview with the psicobloc "boss".

 
 
First Anchors and extensions  (78) Facebook
 

8a would like to hear your opinions regarding suggesting more first anchors and grades on easier routes. Over the years, it has become more popular to give one route two or even three grades depending on how high you are climbing. Normally, this happens on the high end routes, i.e. a 25 metres 8c route might have an 8a anchor midway.

8a (this means the company) think this is something that could be used also for easier routes, i.e. a 25 meter 7c route might be a superb 7a to the ninth quickdraw. This would increase the number of routes. What do you think?/Jens

 
 
Now the link to the webshop works!  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSimon Carter has for 15 years been making his living and travelling worldwide by shooting climbing pictures. Check out his amazing website. You have most probably seen his pictures in magazines, on 8a or in our yearbook, in calenders or in books. You can buy his Calender 2009 and his Coffee Table book - World Climbing in the webshop
at a special reduced 8a price

 
 
Another 8a low priority  Facebook
 

8a would like to get a stronger focus on reporting high quality climbs. The scorecard might be part of the fault why we see more eliminations, link-ups and variations reported. It is often nice to create new challenges by adding or taking away sequences from the original lines. You can add whatever you like to your scorecard but you will reduce the amount of criticism 8a get if you put it up as a "log-book, no score"/Jens

 
 
8a members totally dominate North America Champs  Facebook
 

1. Sean McColl CAN - Tiffany Hensly USA
2. Mauricio Herta MEX - Paige Claasen USA
3. Bret Johnston USA - Emily Harrington USA

Juniors: Michael Foley (USA) and Elizabeth Broun (USA)
Youth A: Michael Bautista (USA) and Sasha Digiulan (USA)
Youth B: Julian Bautista (USA) and Michaela Kiersch (USA).

 
 
Sponsored by the Goverment  Facebook
 

Muriel Sarkany has won 17 WC competitions and the overall title five years. Based on that and that she actually continues competing she is monthly paid by the Government. "I plan to do one year as it actually makes it possible to travel around the world." This year she has been on a roadtrip since March and now she is in Australia and in January she is going to New Zealand. Hopefully she will recover from the finger problems she has had, on and off, since July/Jens

 
 
The next big 8a project - Top-50 destinations book  (2) Facebook
 

The Ultimate Coffee Table Book is what we are aiming for. This means a large book where all the best Crags and Boulder areas in the world are presented including some not yet so well known places. We are looking for pictures that describe the best climbs, sectors, scenary, rest day activities, the people, the campings, the approaches and the wild life etc = The whole package that makes it so fun enjoying the lifestyle of climbing.

The plan is to publish a smaller free of charge book in 2009, continue to gather information and present the Ultimate Coffee Table Book in full scale in 2010. The Top-50 destinations will be choosen by the 8a data base and we hope the whole climbing community will take part and contribute with info and pics/J

 
 
North America Championship  Facebook
 

Live on drtopo.com
Semifinal report

 
 
A story of a fallen emperor  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHere is the true story of what happened to a once proud boulder problem in the French alps: Kaiser Sauzé, 8C+, R.I.P//BP
Photo: Fred Moix

 
 
Below the radar  Facebook
 

Dave Graham has been laying low in recent times, popping into his scorecard on rare occasions usually to log some HARD ascents.
Once again this was the case little over a week ago when Dave did the FA of Big Paw, 8C in Chironico. Dave explains that Big Paw is the assis/sit start to Boogalagga, 8B, and that he spent little over three days to complete the ascent.
Full story and picture on BigUp/JB

 
 
The best climbs in the world  Facebook
 

There are almost 1 million climbs in the 8a database which the members have rated with stars. By using the Tick List, you will climb the best climbs on your next road trip. There are some 500 listed crags and here are the most popular ones: Frankenjura, Rodellar, Kalymnos, Railay, Red River Gorge

Fontainebleau, Bishop, Hueco Tanks, Peak District, Magic Wood

 
 
Rhapsody a variation and two eliminations  (20) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave MacLeod made the FA of Rhapsody, 8c or 8c+, a contender for being the hardest trad route in the world, in 2006. The ascent was very well featured in the E11 DVD with a personal story including some long falls. Since then Sonnie Trotter and Steve McClure has repeated it.

However, Dave Macleod says now in his blog that Rhapsody in fact is an elimination, "It’s a shame that arête is there, and so the route I took has to have an eliminate rule.", apparentely Dave thinks that Steve only did an E10. Pic from Ukclimbing.com

Steve says, 'The only thing that was different was that I took the last hold on the route with my right hand rather than with my left guess that means I didn't do the route then, oh well!'/J

 
 
8a suggest new conversion for Australia  (20) Facebook
 

8a have visited Australia in three weeks and we do beleive that the "average" Australien climber is better than the conversion table suggest. Topos normally suggest that 23 = to 6c+.

8a do not think this is correct. 8a think 23 = 7a, 24 = 7a+ etc. in order to fit into the (devaluated?) Euro grades. This is also confirmed by the Australians, ticking harder in their scorecard while abroad. However, as grades seems to never be changed down-under, there is a tombola feeling/J

 
 
Maximizing/Understanding your grade  (16) Facebook
 

"You should train your weak points", is a comon saying that will not help to maximizing your grade performance. Most climbers have some pre-dominant natural skill like crimping, knee-dropping, endurance etc and/or are physically not average when it comes to length, finger sizes etc.

The best grade performances for women and youngsters are as an example of seen on endurance routes with one-two-three finger pockets all over. By analysing and training your unique skills and feature and matching them to different climbs you might find a short cut for a personal record/J

 
 
 
8c+ FA by Dave Graham  Facebook
 

Dave Graham has done a new 8c+ in Margalef, 24 hour party people. There are now 11 routes graded 8c+ in the 8a data base in Margalef. Dave is #2 i the Combined ranking.

 
 
8a (+) Flash by Vanessa Taylor  Facebook
 

Vanessa Taylor has flashed Monocle d'amérique, 8a (+)in Seynes. Vanessa was #3 in the French Lead Nationals in 2008 and she is #17 in the 8a ranking.

 
 
8B by Brian Antheunisse (17)  Facebook
 

Brian Antheunisse has done his first 8B, Crown of Aragorn in Hueco Tanks. Although he has been climbing for almost 10 years, it is the last 15 months he has showed a remarkable progresse.

 
 
8b by Santa Linya  (2) Facebook
 

Nina Caprez has done Santa Linya, 8b in Santa Linya. Nina is the superior Combined world ranking leader.

 
 
8b obsight by Dave Graham  Facebook
 

David Graham has onsighted Photo Shoot, 8b in Margalef and he registered it as Mainly/Poorly Chipped and added, "Literally retarded" sending a message to whoever did the FA. Dave is #2 in the Combined world ranking.

 
 
9a (+) by Sharma  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDani Andrada tells in his blog how Chris Sharma took advantage of the hitch when loosing the scheduled flight to the Canary Islands by driving back to Santa Linya to finish Directa Open your mind, where he failed at the very last move the day before. Concerning the graduation, Dani writes: "the grade, always complicated, and like Ramón Julián said, it maybe it's easy for 9a+ and hard for 9a. In the future, perhaps slash grades are the better and more precise solution: 9a/+".

Dani ends his post reflecting on his 2008 activity: "This year is about to get to the end and I have my head full of projects for 2009. This 2008, I did not achieve my objectives, but I've been close. Now, I pass them into the next year. One was to send 50 routes of 8c or more and I only did 46 from 8c to 9b. I also missed my last project in Rodellar." //IS

 
 
9a (8c+) by Midtbö  Facebook
 

Magnus Midtbö gave himself a nive x-mas present by making short work of El tempo del cafe, 9a, at Alquezar. Magnus felt the route was easier though and writes in his blog: "...the route felt more like 8c+ to me. I am surprised no one have suggested a downgrade before.". Whether this route simply suits Magnus exceptionally well, or if it's in fact easier, remains to be seen.//BP

 
 
8c+ by 51-year-old  Facebook
 

V12outdoor.com reports that Stevie Haston (51) has done Descent enfant, 8c+ in Grotte de Sebart. should be a world record, however Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla did 9a (+) when he was 48. More info of the 51-year-old

 
 
8c+ FA by Fuentes  Facebook
 

David Fuentes has climbed his hardest route to date. Demente, at Venta de Juana, weighs, according to David, in at "hard 8c+". The 20-year-old has had a great fall/winter with ascents of five routes of 8c or harder.

 
 
8b onsight by Jakob Schubert (17)  Facebook
 

Jakob Schubert who was #5 in the World Cup 2008, has onsighted Noa, 8b in Alquezar. "1st day climbing in Spain --> syked!" If just the weather will be OK, there will probably be a new world record of hard sends around Lleida, the center of Universe, as it seems all the top guys are celebrating Christmas there.

 
 
More FA by Dani Andrada  Facebook
 

Dani Andrada has added three 8c+ and one 9a in Santa Linya to his log-book during the last month. In total, he has done 11 routes 8c+ and harder in Santa Linya in 2008, out of which 9 are First Ascents. Dani has probably at least three times as many 9a FA's as any other climber.

 
 
8b+ onsight & 8c flash by Magnus Midtbö  (1) Facebook
 

Magnus Midtbö has onsighted Desafiando a newton L2, 8b+ and flashed Tsunami in Alquezar. Magnus who was #10 in the Lead Word Cup is #5 in the 8a ranking.

 
 
8B+ Love by Bernhard Schwaiger  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBernhard Schwaiger has done Love at last sight, 8B+ in in Birgkar. "...tried to link the moves a bit more radical and time saving, making the single moves harder though ..." Bernhard is #5 in the world ranking. Pic and more Love pics by Christina Dalla-Bona

 
 
First 9a by Bogdan Rokosz (36)  Facebook
 

Bogdan Rokosz has put up Sprawa Honoru, 9a in Dol. Kluczwody.

 
 
New 9b by Sharma!  (33) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt seems Chris Sharma has managed to make the FA of Golpe de estado in the El Pati-sector of Siurana. The route is a direct version of Estado critico and is made up of one 9a part, directly followed by an 8c+ part, without any rest. Chris was a bit hesitant about the grade, but in the end he decided it was most probably 9b.
Source: Dani Andrada's blog. Dani: When are you starting your English blog, like Daila;)?//BP Picture and a video trailer available at bigupproductions.com.
"I'm still not totally sure on the grade, but it is comparable in some ways to 'Jumbo love' except the bottom is probably harder and the top a bit easier and less overhanging. I'll have to try some other routes to compare a bit more before I'm sure about the grade."

 
 
Three 8c+ by Graham  (13) Facebook
 

David Graham who has been the combined world ranking leader about 80% of the time since 8a started in 2000, seems to be back in shape after endless injuries. This last week he did three 8c+'s around Lleida. Currently, Dave is #2 in combined world ranking.

 
 
Jenny Lavarda is back  Facebook
 

Jenny Lavarda who won the Youth World Championship in 2001 and who was the combined World Champion in 2007 has done Santa Linya, 8b in Santa Linya. Jenny has also been succesfully competing in the ICE World Cup so she has it all.

 
 
Honnold and Co. repeats El Niño  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Honnold has, after taking a few weeks building up his endurance, moved his game from the short grit routes of the UK, to the the bigwall of El Cap, Yosemite. To be more precise, on 9 December, he, Ivo Ninov and Conrad Anker, topped out after 5 days on the wall, making their's the 8th(?) free ascent of the Huber brothers' El Niño, 8a+ (30 pitches).//BP

Yesterday the allrounder did Burning Down the House, 8c, at Jailhouse.

 
 
8B by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done Frodo Nakole, 8B in Petrhrad. The 15-year-old is superior in the Combined world ranking.

 
 
8b by Akiyo Noguchi (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Akiyo Noguchi, #2 in the Boulder World Cup 2008 and the Combined WC winner, has done Liquid finger, 8b (+) in Joyama. Last year, she was #2 in the Boulder World Champion. As she also has done an 8A boulder this year, she just might be Top-10, in the climber of the year list 2008/Jens

 
 
2 8c+'s in 3 days by Bolger  Facebook
 

British expatriate, Tom Bolgers, seems to have adapted well to Spanish conditions, having settled in Lleida, where he's got a job as a teacher of English. Three days ago, he climbed his first 8c+, Ingravids extension and today he repeated the feat by climbing La nueva ola, both in the Santa Linya cave.//BP

 
 
Sam Edwards repeats The Island, 8C  (7) Facebook
 

Sam Edwards, yes your eyes aren't deceiving you, has made the 3rd ascent of Dave Graham's The Island, 8C, at Fontainebleau. If you don't recognize the name, it could be because this Tassie hasn't been in the news since... we don't know when, until now when he registered this repeat on Bleau info. Back in the day, he made the FA of Goldfish trombone, 8B+, at Bishop. What he's been up to since, we don't know. Here is an old interview with the man.//BP

 
 
First 8c by Zupan (16)  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIzidor Zupan (16) has repeated Corrida, 8c, at Misja pec, his first 8c. It seems Izidor is heading to Spain like so many others: "perfect end of the season...now 10 days of rest and then a muerte to spain!! wooohoo"
Photo: Izidor on Xeni styler by Jernej Kruder//BP

 
 
Another two 9a's by Ramonet  (14) Facebook
 

Ramon Julian Puigblanque has sort of made a new type of world record doing two 9a's on the same day, La Fabelita R2 plus La novena Enmienda where he confirms the suggested downgrading by Adam Ondra. One day earlier he made the FA of a 9a+. Ramonet blogspot/Jens

 
 
New 9a by Dani Andrada  (6) Facebook
 

Dani Andrada has open yet another 9a in the Santa Linya Cave, Analogica Natural extension. There are now more than 15 routes/variations graded 9a in the most impressive climbing cave in the world. Most of the hard work putting up the bolts has been done by Dani "A muerte" Andrada/Jens

 
 
9a+ FA by Puigblanque  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamon Julian Puigblanque has made the FA of Directa Open your mind, 9a+, at Santa Linya, thereby crowning an extraordinary couple of weeks of climbing.

Ramonet needed a while to decide the grade and still doubtfully proposed 9a+. The former contender for this route's FA, Dani Andrada, seems to have it clearer from what he's published in his blog: "although he's still hesitating, it's the addition of its two parts grades, 8c+ + 8c+; so that's the grade."
Pic of Ramonet in Gancho perfecto, 9a in Margalef.

 
 
Lynn Hill (47) sends Chablanke, 8A or A+  (4) Facebook
 

Lynn Hill, 47-years-young, is as strong as she's ever been. Yesterday, she made the 6th female ascent of Chablanke, 8A or 8A+, at Hueco. Damn!//BP

 
 
8B+ by Alexander Förschler  (5) Facebook
 

Alexander Förschler has done Feuerwalze, 8B+ and reports through his scorecard, "Finally done!!First Repetition. Fa was in 2000 by H. Röker. Took me over two months of work and lots of night sessions! Really great 13 moves problem with sick move on fingerpocket at the end."

 
 
8B+ by Ekaitz Maiz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt makes some weeks we reported Ekaitz Maiz's first 9a with Sistematik Ihes and now, we return with his renewed tick list.

Thus, he got his first 8b OS with Karma in Lezaia; then, and in the same area, he bolted and sent Ardi Beltza, 8c. After that, he moved to Etxauri, where he fired-off Pistolaren Mintzoa, solid 8c+.
After failing on his other proyects in Etxauri plus the firsts snowfalls, he was obligued to go at lower altitude, so he decided to keep on trying his three-years-lasting and 20 movements on slopers boulder-route proyect in Aizpún for, being lucky this time, sending which is called Harribizi Harribitxi and graded it 8B+. He defines it in desnivel as follows: "It's a very technical problem which demands a lot of power endurance, a style I'm good at. You depend a lot on the conditions, it must be cold but not humid". //IS
Photo: Haitz Pagogaraialdeagaskoa.

 
 
8b+ or c OS by Sharma  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Sharma seems eager to become the new onsight king. Dani Andrada reports on his blog that he, full of energy after a week in Switzerland without climbing, made an OS of Pepe Mollat, 8b+ or c.//BP

Last minute: As read in Daila Ojeda's blog, Chris has also on-sighted humildes pa casa, 8c in Oliana.//IS

Pic: María Torres.

 
 
Once the spell is broken...  (33) Facebook
 

The Promise, ex E10 7a, has seen no less than three repeats this weekend, two ground ups (Pete Robins and Ben Bransby) and one headpoint (John Roberts). The grade now seems to have settled at E7 7a or 7B+. Full story with photos, videos etc on UK Climbing//BP

 
 
4 FA by Ramón Julian Puigblanque  Facebook
 

Ramón Julian Puigblanque has the last wek done three 8c's FA and the FA of Llamps i trons, 8c+ in Margalef. Ramonet is #3 in the world ranking.

 
 
3rd 8B by Josh Newman  Facebook
 

Josh Newman has repeated Cayman, 8B, at a secret spot. This was his 3rd of the grade.//BP

 
 
Mike Foley (18) does first 8B  (1) Facebook
 

About a month ago, Mike Foley, 18, reapeated Livin' astro, 8c+, at Rumney and a couple of days ago it was time for Double down, an 8B at Great Barrington, to fall. So, who is this 18-year-old? We asked him: "I would describe myself as a skinny New Englander that no one has ever heard of. Hahahaha." He goes on to say he thinks he's "just about dead even in terms of strength in both fields", those fields being route climbing and bouldering, and that his "next bouldering project is at Lincoln Woods... most people just call it the Super Project but the stand start is called Devine Providence but there is still an obvious sit start that is yet to be done. I did the first ascent of the low start last year, starting from one move in and thought was about hard 8A+. No one has ever doen the first move but I have come very close. That single move is at least 8A, so the full problem should check in around 8B/B+ if it goes."//BP

 
 
8c+ by 45-year-old  (3) Facebook
 

Sam Grhatte (45) has done his first 8c+, Un petit Velo in Riouperoux/J

 
 
8A+ FFA by Alex Puccio  (3) Facebook
 

Alex Puccio has done her fourth 8A+, A Maze of Death in the Buttermilks. She thought it was hard so she is getting closer to be the first female who has done a 8B boulder. Alex is the female world boulder ranking leader/J

 
 
Ramonet repeats F.T.S, 9a  (6) Facebook
 

Ramon Julian Puigblanque has repeated Patxi Usobiaga's Fuck the system, 9a, at Santa Linya. "Two tries plus one last year, feels more like 8c+ than 9a." Ramonet is #3 in the world ranking/J

 
 
DW in Hueco  Facebook
 

Daniel Woods, the bouldering #1, has been on a short family trip to Hueco. The conditions, too warm, were far from ideal, but this didn't stop him from grabbing the 5th ascent of Chris Sharma's Diabolique, 8B, flashing Le Retour de Goupil, 8A+, as well as sending a bunch of 8A+'s and 8A's. Coming close on Terremer, hard 8C, he says he'll return in January and finish the job. //BP

 
 
8b by Vian Charbonneau  Facebook
 

Canadian, Vian Charbonneau has done Death Row, 8b at the Jailhouse close to San Francisco.

 
 
8c by Barbara Raudner  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Raudner has done Doubleoverhead, 8c, at Adlitzgraben. This was her third 8c, after Keitos Palast at Höllental and Selbst ist das Kind at Adlitzgraben. Barbara is not (yet?) a pro-climber and has a full time job in the PR-business. She says she doesn't have any special project right now, only to keep climbing cool routes.
Photo: Barbara on Doubleoverhead, by Claudia Ziegler//BP

 
 
Weaver makes 2nd ascent of Southern smoke  Facebook
 

Brad Weaver has, just like predicted by Joey, made the 2nd ascent of Southern smoke, 8c+ in the RRG. This was Brad's second of the grade.//BP

 
 
Ménégatti (18) climbs Kheops, 8B  Facebook
 

Lucas Ménégatti has repeated Kheops, 8B, in Fontainebleau (Cuvier Rempart). This was the 2nd of the grade for the 18-year-old.
Lucas comments "This boulder was for me, a mental step more than a physical problem. I have a lot of projects in Font like: The island, Satan i helvete, Gecko, Chaos, Partage and many other"//BP

 
 
8c+ by Ramonet  Facebook
 

Ramón Julián is now more focused on rock climbing after the competition season. Thus, he's just gotten his tenth 8c+ this year with Open your mind (first pitch) in Santa Linya and in only three goes.

 
 
9a 2nd go by Ondra  (42) Facebook
 

Yesterday, Adam Ondra made a 2nd go ascent of Halupca 1978 (FA Matej Sova) at Osp, Slovenia. 9a 2nd go... is this really possible? Even Adam himself seems to doubt it, commenting: I had not even wanted to send it that try, but suddenly I was on top, I do not know about grade - am I really so strong or am I just SO lucky recently? Pretty good route though. Usual Ondra style, he warmed down by climbing Revolicija, 8c, making increasing his number of 8c's and harder this year to 63. There's no way that's not a record too.//BP

 
 
8c+ FA by Joey Kinder  Facebook
 

Joey Kinder has put up Southern Smoke, 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Joey has been a great climber for quite a few years now, but this year, he's really picked up his game considerably non the less. What do you say about two 9a's and five 8c+'s. He is now #8 in the world ranking.//BP

 
 
Webb repeats Li, 8B  (15) Facebook
 

James Webb has made the 5th(?) ascent of Fred Nicole's one mover (essentially) Li, at Hueco Tanks. James made a one day ascent using ninja beta. Isn't that cheating though?//BP

 
 
Jorgeson repeats The Groove  (7) Facebook
 

Kevin Jorgeson has made the 2nd ascent of James Pearson's The Groove, at Cratcliff. Originally given E10 7b, James has, in hindsight, suggested it might very well be E11. What Kevin thinks of the grade is not known at this time, but what I do know is that it's a fantastic achievement. James comments that it's an "awesome effort and nice to see it getting the attention it deserves."
What E11 7b means in French is difficult to say, but the 7b for the hardest move suggests it's very hard indeed, probably in the 8c or above range. But until Kevin has said anything about the grade, this is pure speculation.//BP

 
 
Honnold and Jorgeson free solos Meshuga  (22) Facebook
 

Alex Honnold and Kevin Jorgeson has made the 5th and 6th ascents of Seb Grieve's Meshuga, E9 6c, made famous by Hard grit. Not only that: They free soloed it! In reality, the difference from leading it isn't exactly great, as you can't place any gear anyway. From Alex this was almost expected, but, man what a recovery from Kevin after being bed bound with the flu and everything! Don't try this at home folks...//BP

 
 
Traversi repeats Evilution, 8A+ X  (3) Facebook
 

Carlo Traversi has made the probably 4th ascent of Jason Kehl's massive (~15 m in total, 6 m to the lip)) highball Evilution in the Buttermilks. According to his scorecard, Carlo made the ascent without top rope practice.//BP

 
 
Landman flashes La Soucoupe  Facebook
 

Tyler Landman has made a rare flash ascent of La Soucoupe a classic testpiece at Chironico signed Fred Nicole. originally given hard 8B, the grade now seems to have settled at 8A+. Chris Webb also flashed it, anyone else?//BP

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