NEWS

Megos, Ondra and Ellison Arco Rock Legends
Planet Mountain reports from the Arco Rock Legends ceremony, where Alex Megos won the Salewa Rock Award and Adam Ondra won the La Sportiva Competition Award. Ondra won his first Award when he was 15 years old and in total, he has five Awards now. No other climber has won more than once. John Ellison received the title of Dryarn Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil Award for his work with Climbers Against Cancer, which has raised some 500 000 Euros beside having sold and distributed 25 000 T-shirts. (c) Giulio Malfer

8a+ DWS flash by Magnus Midtbรธ
Magnus Midtbรธ, #4 in the Lead World Champion 2011, reports on Facebook with a great picture from a 8a+ DWS flash, "Setting up for the huge dyno on Loskot and Two Smoking Barreels!! So happy to have pulled off what might be my most committing flash ever. Photo: @janvincentkleine

Petr Blaha, who did his first 8c+ when he was 35 years old, is four years later in his best shape ever having done two more routes of this grade, La totalitรฉ and Le cรดtรฉ obscur in Gorges du Loup. The great and inspiring story is that he started climbing more than 20 years ago!

Great spirit and great job by the Lead organizers in Arco
In total, close 500 youngsters participated in the two days Lead flash qualifications and everyone reports that the spirit was high with excellent route setting and few minor incidents. The team coach from Sweden, Reino Horak says, - You should report that the jury president Tim Hatch has done a very good job and he is working non stop fixing some small technical incidents. Several coaches have said that he has been a key player and it is just amazing how smooth everything goes. (c) Eddie Fowke

8c+ by Matteo Menardi (16), instead of going to Arco
Matteo Menardi has done Open Project 8c+ and his comment says it all,"Thanks to Hannes Pfeifhofer for bolting this line and most of the routes in Landro." During the last three weeks, the Italian has also done four 8c's, for two out of which he gave a personal 8b+ grade, and onsighted three routes 8a+ and harder. Including a 9a done this spring, the 16 year old is #3 in the 8a Junior ranking game and you start to wonder if he would not have had great chances in the current Youth World Championship in Arco.

Jernej Kruder #2 in Boulder Worlds goes for 8b+ alpine
Jernej Kruder has together with Gregor Vezonik done the first repeat of Mattias Trottman's Hattori Hanzo in Titlist Nordwand, which, at 8b+, is considered the hardest European North Face. Last year, Jernej was #2 in the Boulder World Championship and won in Arco. This year he has moved his focus also to routes, having done two 8c+'s. Check Kruder's nice report from his MP experience. Day one: wet Day two: one try in each pitch, but last one Day 3: Vezi linked first and second (5b, 6b) I was following, next 2 pitches I linked (7b, 6c), after i did 8b+ on my first go, belayed Vezi for 2 tries, led next 8a+ and almost fell, led 7a on sight without energy left and almost died of dehydration and cramps, but I did it amd I was standing on the top :D

Sasha DiGulian does FFA of Magic Mushroom at the Eiger North Face
Sasha Digulianreports on Facebook that she has, together with Carlo Traversi, done the Magic Mushroom of Eiger North Face that finishes up at 3 219 meters after 21 pitches up to 7c+. (c) Carlo Denali "I've never tried harder on anything in my life. I am wrecked and can't believe it's real. 4 days 3 nights and the dream is complete! We did it!" DiGiulian and Traversi had spent three weeks projecting Paciencia (23 pitches, 8a) also on the Eiger North Face. However, continuous poor weather made them switch route and after just a quick rappel check-up of the Magic Mushroom on the 27th, they succeeded at their first attempt. Sasha had previously told 8a that she had to go back to school in the end of August so it was just one of these "final day, final go". For several years, Sasha has been one of the best female climbers in all disciplines, including competition climbing, where she was #2 respectively #8 in the Boulder and Lead World Championships in Arco 2009, being 18 years old.

Stasa Gejo and Filip Schenk World Champions
Filip Schenk, who did two 8b routes in Arco some weeks ago and has no boulders recorded, won the youth B category in a superior style. First, he won both the qualification and the semi and in the final he got three tops meanwhile the rest of the finalists just managed one, all together. Staลกa Gejo, who did her first 8b when she was 13 years old, and who was #5 in the last Boulder WC, won in a thrilling show. Her opponent, Miho Nonaka, #3 in the Boulder WC 2015, spent all four minutes on just one problem. Results (c) Peter Thulstrup

Shiraishi and Garnbret take first golds in Arco
The big favorites; Ashima Shiraishi from USA and Janja Garnbret from Slovenia got the first golds in the Youth World Championship in Arco. Both had also previously won the qualifications and the semifinals. In the semifinals, the route setting was perfect and it was a great show in the live streaming. Results (c) Giulio Malfer Ashima has done several 9a's and also an 8B+, and in fact, the 14 year old, has had the most impressive female tick list in the world, during the last two years. Janja Garnbret has won all the Youth comps she has entered and in the only two Lead World Cup she has done, the 16 year old was the runner up :)