Alex Puccio has done Irreversible 8B (+) in RMNP and what makes it even more impressive is that only three months ago she had a knee surgery. In 2014, the 8a ranking game leader for five straight years, was #2 in the world championship. (c) Joel Zerr "FFA. I think 3rd ascent in total. Daniel (Woods) put it up last year and said it was 8B/+ and Dave (Graham) did after and said 8B+. My opinion is 8B, but I do think it is a bit harder than Freaks of the Industry. Nice line, this was my second day trying it, but I have climbed on a lot of the holds because of Freaks. I climbed it basically 2 times today. I was on the V1 top out and I got really pumped and cold so I climbed down since I still can't fall yet. Finished off a few tries later!!! 😄 It's been just about 3 months since my surgery. Happy to be climbing!! Thanks crew for all the help and support and Mike for the heel hook beta!

1. Sean McColl - Megan Mascarenas 2. Rei Sugimoto - Akiyo Noguchi 3. Jernej Kruder - Janja Garnbret What a great show! Megan Mascarenas won all three rounds, which happens extremely seldom, and then also the super final. In the final she actually did all four tops and Akiyo just two. Among the male, Sean McColl won as last year after having been #9, #5 and #1 in the final. Complete results Janja Garnbret on the great picture by E Holzknecht.

The fifth stage of the Lead World Cup takes place in Puurs, Belgium and there are 108 athletes registered to compete, which can be compared to 91 two years ago. For both male and female there is an open race for the title even if it has not been decided if this will be the second or the third last as Kranj is marked "provisional". Live streaming starts on Sunday at 10.00 with the semifinal, and the finals start at 5.00 pm.

jose luis palao has done his fourth 9a during the last 15 weeks, Leire in Cuenca. The 31-year-old did his first 8c 11 years ago and his first 8c+ in 2009, and in 2012 he did El Intento 9a. How can you explain doing four 9a's so quick and what about specific training? Everything flows in my body now I'm more focused in climbing. I'm more of a rock climber, I have plenty of time and I prefer rock climbing when I can not climb the rock, I train four days a week 3 or 4 hours per day. I only work three months a year in a hospital in the summer, work settings also route in climbing competitions. © Javi Pec

Muriel Sarkany, one of the best competition climbers in the history, who did her first 9a when she was 39, has onsighted Paideia 8a+ in Rodellar. The picture by Kaori is from Florida 8a+, which she did one day later. Between 1997 and 2004, Muriel won the Overall WC 5 times and in the remaining 3 years she was the runner-up! The 153 cm tall stopped competing in 2010 and has since done some great progress peaking so far being 39 years old.

Mammut has developed an interesting belay chain by connecting six rings in two different sizes which will be available in 2016. "The Belay Chain 12.0 offers downright innumerable options for connecting fixed points at the belay position to each other. The sling is at the same time used for self-securing and belay positions can be set up very quickly; the utmost safety is ensured at all times, since every single ring has a tensile strength of 22 kN. This enormous breaking strength is achieved by an innovative round coiling procedure for which a patent has been filed: a coiled Dyneema® core is enclosed in an abrasion-proof sheath."

This friday, the fifth annual Adidas Rockstar starts in Stuggart where some 65 athletes will compete for Euro 20 000. During the qually and the semi it is more or less the normal IFSC boulder format meanwhile the final is done with an elimination format with a super final. Several athletes have said that this is the high light of the year and in fact Sachi Amma is participating, a well as Sean McColl, Jan Hojer, Janja Garnbret and Akiyo Noguchi. The Livestream starts at Saturday 26 September 20:15 PM CEST! (c) E Holzknecht

Nasz Chleb has done five 8b+ and Spanish Caravane 8c during two weeks in Verdon, which is remarkable as she had previously done just two 8b+ and one 8c. Part of the explanation is that she took one year off from University studies last year. ""The route traverses through the middle of the impressive overhanging cave of "La Ramirole", giving a 50m long good endurance test piece. I liked the route from the beginning, because there are no lottery moves... For trying the route I was encouraged by my friend Marv, who told that this 8c more likely to send then "La feu occulte" 8b+ on which I was working on this time. By the end of climbing day, I went on "Spanish caravanne", I did all moves, so I decided, that in case of sending 8b+ fast, I will make a gift to myself and get familiar with 8c...I will prepare project for next holidays...I was not thinking, that I manage to send it that fast."

Gudmund Grønhaug, som har klättrat på hög nivå i 20+ år och har en Masters i Science in Sports, har publicerat boken Belastningsskador i klatring. Den norska boken tar ett helhetsgrepp och omfattar allt från grundläggande träningslära inkl förslag på periodisering samt detaljerad info av de flesta belastningsskador man kan råka ut för. Den tar också upp kroppsövningar man kan använda efter skadan och även för att träna antagonisterna. Under hösten håller han föredrag i Norge och hoppas även kunna besöka Sverige och Danmark på temat - "Tren mindre, prester bedre!" Målet med foredraget er å lære bort hvordan man kan øke effekten og samtidig minimere sjansen for skader! Boken inleds med ett förord av Adam Ondra som förklarar att han aldrig har varit skadad och orsaken till detta är att han inte hade prestation i fokus när han var tonåring utan istället bara klättrade på. Utmanar man sig ändå med allt för hård prestationsinriktad träning så ger boken enkla och praktiska råd hur man diagnosticerar och behandlar tecken på skador. Trots att den är skriven på norska är den lättläst och det blir aldrig riktigt komplicert. Boken är praktiskt tillämpar och har hela tiden budskapet att känn efter och ta det försiktigt. De tydliga anatomiska bilderna fyller även som funktion att man blir lite skrämd och istället för att få en kronisk skada så undviker du den genom vila och allmänna övningar. Det enda som saknas är ett sakregister så man enklare kan söka sig fram till rätt sida. Norsk klatring intervjuade honom: - Hvis opplaget på 1500 blir utsolgt så får jeg kanskje en timelønn på 40 øre. Blir ikke rik av å lage fagbøker i Norge! Men jeg har lært utrolig mye underveis og jeg har fått samarbeide med noen av de aller beste på sine felt. Hvis boka i tillegg kan bidra til å hjelpe noen ut av skade, eller til å hindre skade så er det lønn nok i massevis. Klatring er altfor gøy til at man skal behøve og skade seg av det. Köp den för 329 nkr