NEWS

3x 8B+ by Christof Rauch
Christof Rauch has done three 8B+ Boulder Problems (two of them FA) in the last 2 weeks. The third best positioned boulderer in the 8a ranking game did an 8C FA last year, which is still his personal best. He comments in his scorecard about Insanity of Grandeur, one of his sends: "Felt so unreal to stand on top of this huge boulder! A real kingline with full value climbing. Checked out the moves when i did "Delusion" for the first time, then I had a few sessions last winter and now it took me 3 more sessions to put it down. Syked!!!" (c) Stefan Kรผrzii

Oriane Bertone, who did her first 8A being 9-year-old, has done her tenth 8A, Evita assis in Ravine du trou. "One of the best lines of Reunion Island. Difficult for small climbers who have to take a swing on a little crimp on the first crux."

Action Directe 9a by David Firnenburg
David Firnenburg, #3 in Combined in the last world championship, has done his eighth 9a, Action Directe in Frankenjura. It was put up by Wolgang Gullich in 1991 and it has been repeated 21 times now. (c) Lars Scharl 'ITโ€™S DONE!!! A DREAM COMES TRUE. Last Saturday David finally repeated โ€žAction Directeโ€œ (9a) in Frankenjura after falling 9 times at the very last move. That was heartbreaking. The process of hard work behind this ascent makes the success even sweeter. Itโ€™s a big motivational boost to have achieved something that hard and iconic. Itโ€™s a feeling of satisfaction and pride which definitely remains active in our memories longer than usual."Action Directe" is a true masterpiece.'

Also Kruder goes for 9? for Es Pontas and possibly Tokyo
Jernej Kruder came to Mallorca with no real DWS experience and immediately onsighted Weather man 8a+ with a crux 18 meters high up. Then, he started working on Es Pontas. During his five weeks on the island, he only spent one day climbing other routes, onsighting two 8as and an 8a+. Regarding the grade, about which Chris Sharma told 8a ten years ago that it is personal but anyhow agreed that it could be a 9b, Jernej seems to be of the same opinion. (c) Kerstin Helbach "I'll just stick with Chris' thoughts. This thing is so specific. For sure it's about the 9th grade, but there are so many different factors, like the dyno. If there are 200 people in the world climbing 9a, maybe just 10% of them can do it. There is a fear factor and a mind battle trying it all over again without knowing if you're able to the all the moves or not. At the moment I don't feel like superman to climb all the hardest climbs in the world, but I feel lucky to have all of this skills that you need for this route. Maybe I'm just one of few chosen guys, who can actually climb this thing." The Slovenian also said that he could not do the crazy knee drop sequence after the dyno so he found another solution. What's interesting is that in fact the runner-up in the Bouldering World Championship 2014 says that even after the big dyno and the "drop knee" part, he found several more cruxes. "So on my last 4 days I was so lucky I didn't fall even once on dyno (even though I was never sure I'm gonna do it or not). So at the end the main crux was a long move on the arete. I stuck it for 3 times already, but failed it after that move- 3 moves before jug. There is also a bit strange crux after the jug, but luckily I was very confident after doing all the hard parts." Next year, Kruder will compete as normal, which he will combine with climbing Boulders, routes, and MPs and at some point he might start training for the Olympic Games.

The essential (9a) by Chris Hanke
"With the falling leaves I take the oppurtunity of the first dry conditions since two weeks and clipped the anchor of "The Essential (9a)" That's Christoph Hanke's comment about his send of one of the most repeated 9as in Frankenjura. He's also usually seen competing as a part of the German national team. (c) Alex Megos

Kruder da 9? a koลŸuyor: Es Pontas ve muhtemelen Tokyo
Jernej Kruder Mallorca'ya geldiฤŸinde neredeyse hiรง Deep Water Solo tecrรผbesi yoktu ve birden Weather man 8a+ rotasฤฑnฤฑ onsight รงฤฑktฤฑ, ki bu rotanฤฑn kilidi sudan 18 metre yukarฤฑda bulunuyor. Ardฤฑndan, Es Pontas rotasฤฑna รงalฤฑลŸmaya baลŸladฤฑ ve adada bulunduฤŸu 5 hafta boyunca sadece bir gรผn farklฤฑ rotalarda tฤฑrmandฤฑ ve iki 8a ve bir 8a+ onsightladฤฑ. Dereceyi gรถz รถnรผnde bulunduracak olursak, Chris Sharma on yฤฑl รถnce 8a ya bunun bir 9b olabileceฤŸini sรถylemiลŸti. GรถrรผnรผลŸe gรถre Jernej de aynฤฑ fikirde. (c) Kerstin Helbach "Bu konuda Chrisvari konuลŸacaฤŸฤฑm. Bu ลŸey รงok รถzel bir yapฤฑda. Kesinlikle 9 lu bir derece fakat bir sรผrรผ etken var. AtlayฤฑลŸ kฤฑsmฤฑ mesela. EฤŸer dรผnyada 200 kiลŸi 9a tฤฑrmanabiliyorsa belki yรผzde onu bu hamleyi yapabilir. Korku faktรถrรผ var, zihin savaลŸฤฑ var. Her seferinde tรผm hamleleri tekrar birleลŸtirip oraya gelebilecekmisin bilmiyorsun. Tabi ลŸimdi kendimi en zor rotalarฤฑ tฤฑrmanabilecek bir sรผpermen gibi gรถrmรผyorum ama bu rota iรงin gerekli yeteneklere sahip olduฤŸumu hissediyorum. Belki ben bu rotayฤฑ tฤฑrmanabilecek birkaรง ลŸanslฤฑ kiลŸiden biri olurum." Slovenyalฤฑ ayrฤฑca atlayฤฑลŸtan sonraki รงฤฑlgฤฑn diz dรผลŸรผrme bรถlรผmรผnรผ yapamadฤฑฤŸฤฑnฤฑ ve yeni bir รงรถzรผm bulduฤŸunu sรถyledi. ฤฐlginรง olan ise 2014 Boulder Dรผnya ลžampiyonasฤฑ nda zirveyi zorlayan tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸรงฤฑnฤฑn bรผyรผk atlayฤฑลŸ ve diz dรผลŸรผrrmeli bรถlรผmden sonra da birรงok kilit bulmasฤฑ. "Son 4 gรผnรผmde รงok ลŸanslฤฑydฤฑm รงรผnkรผ bir kere bile atlama hamlesinden dรผลŸmedim (ki hiรงbir zaman tekrar yapabileceฤŸimden emin olamฤฑyorum). Ana kilidin sonunda uzun bir hamle vardฤฑ ve ben ลŸimdiden 3 kere buradan dรผลŸtรผm ki bu cepten 3 hamle รถnce. Aslฤฑnda cepten sonra da enteresan bir bรถlรผm var ama bunca zor tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸtan sonra o bรถlรผmรผ geรงecek รถzgรผveni buldum." Gelecek yฤฑl Kruder yarฤฑลŸmacฤฑ olmaya devam edecek kimbilir belki de Olimpiyatlara hazฤฑrlanacak.

Pitch #15 9a "sent" by Ondra at 11 pm
Adam Ondra comes with great news that he, at 11 pm, has done the second 9a traverse pitch starting five meters in due to a wet hold. Then he continued doing great progress also on pitch #16 and here you can listen to his sum up recorded at 1 am.

First 8C by Alexander Feichter
Alexander Feichter, who previously has done three 9a's and five 8B's, has done the FA of The Mystical Patatoheadยดs Direct Edge 8C in Gais after seven days of projecting. It was opened on top-rope by Martin Moser in 2004 who also used the right crack and called it 8C. Alexander opted for just using the edge making the grade more solid but says it not an elimination. Full novel story in his scorecard. "It is by far the most difficult boulder I have ever climbed in a boulder area until this day. If one stays underneath of it, the direct edge seems almost impossible." Video

Megos opens a 20 year old 8B+ project in Gรถteborg
Alex Megos has opened the first 8B+ in Sweden, Trainspotting in Gรถteborg, which he says is definitely one of his greatest Boulder FAs ever. The high ball has been a project for 20 years and Alex rappelled down first to check out the scary top-out. "The boulder has a concave frontside so it gets steeper and steeper the higher you climb. Except from the first 2 moves all the moves are hard and balancy. The problem is that the holds are all turned in the wrong direction and there are no footholds in the right positions. So if you could turn one or two holds 90ยฐ it would probably not be harder then 8A. The way it is you have to do the moves as slow as possible to get the holds right but the problem is as soon as you let go with one hand you start to fall out. The wall has a few crack systems through it so all the holds are crimps on the edge of the cracks. Some of them are slightly incut but most of them are slopy. The last move is a big throw from a decent sloppy crimp to the a big jug up and left with really poor feet and you are high off the ground as well. " Gรถteborg is said to be the closest connected to a big climbing area city in the world. Trainspotting is just in the middle of all 1 000+ climbs up to five pitches, which you reach from the city center within 12 minutes including 3 minutes walk from the train station. (c) Daniela Ebler