NEWS

Klรคttercentret vo ลกvรฉdskom ล tokholme, kde sa zvyฤajne organizujรบ najvรคฤลกie preteky v krajine, pozรฝva borcov zo vลกetkรฝch konฤรญn na vyskรบลกanie mega Projektu. Prvรฝ prelezca tejto cesty dostane prรฉmiu 5000โ‚ฌ a tรกto suma sa kaลพdรฝm rokom, ฤo cesta zostane projektom, navรฝลกi o ฤalลกรญch 1000โ‚ฌ. Jednotlivรฉ sekcie budรบ obodovanรฉ a lezec, ktorรฝ sa na konci roka dostane najvyลกลกie zรญska odmenu 1000โ‚ฌ. Sรบลฅaลพ odลกtartuje devรคtnรกsteho februรกra a na podujatie je pozvanรฝch niekoฤพko lezeckรฝch celebrรญt. Projekt je zloลพenรฝch z niekoฤพkรฝch bouldrov o cca piatich krokoch, ktorรฝch obtiaลพnosลฅ sa postupne zvyลกuje. Zaฤรญna sa na ~6A a celรก cesta konฤรญ parรกdnym ~8C. Jednotlivรฉ sekcie cesty chceme ohodnotiลฅ, takลพe si kaลพdรฝ bude mรดcลฅ pribliลพne zmeraลฅ, kam sa dostal. Keฤลพe cesta bude na stene nastรกlo, bude to po prvรฝ raz v lezeckej histรณrii kedy sa bude na vytrvalostnej ceste mรดcลฅ urฤiลฅ svetovรฝ rekord a kaลพdรฝ sa mรดลพe pokรบsiลฅ ho zdolaลฅ. Takisto sa vลกak otvรกrajรบ moลพnosti aj pre rรดzne ฤalลกie rekordy a ลกtatistiky, napr. na zรกklade krajiny, regiรณnu, pohlavia, veku atฤ." Tento inovatรญvny nรกpad je jednoznaฤne dobrรฝm zviditeฤพnenรญm Klรคttercentretu a mohol by maลฅ potenciรกl aj na inรฝch stenรกch. Pรกฤi sa Ti takรกto myลกlienka? Myslรญลก, ลพe by sa mohla ujaลฅ aj v niektorej zo slovenskรฝch hรกl? Daj vedieลฅ v komentรกroch!

Tejsav รฉs eldurrant alkarok a legolvasottabb cikkek
Lactic Acid and Pumped Forearms(Tejsav รฉs az eldurrant alkarok) a legolvasottabb cikkek a 8a.nu rendszerben, tรถbb mint 100 000 megtekintรฉssel. Ezt kรถveti nรฉpszerลฑsรฉgben A durranรกs elkerรผlรฉse. cรญmลฑ poszt. ร–sszessรฉgรฉben 29 cikk jelent meg edzรฉssel kapcsolatban. A legellentmondรกsosabb pedig egyรฉrtelmลฑen a Running Can Be Counter-productive, (a futรกs kontra produktรญv lehet). Az iromรกnyok/fordรญtรกsok nagy rรฉsze egyรฉbkรฉnt a Dr 8a nรฉven emlegetett Bjรถrn Albertล‘l szรกrmazik.

Phutawan Resort at Railay with view at Diamond cave
Phutawan resort is probably the best place to stay if you want to stay away from the hectic Railay life. They only got some 20 rooms and the swimming pool and restaurant is big. Diamond cave is in the shade all day and one of the best beginner crag at Railay. Full day course prices start at 45 euro. The coffee bar is also one of the best.

Another 9a by Reffo Silvio
Silvio Reffo has done his tenth 9a, Thunder ribes in Arco. "I did the second ascent after Stefano Ghisolfi. Another hard connection in Pueblo of Massone. It was a big surprise because I was there only for endurance training after some weeks of power training."

Two 8c's in Oliana by Katherine Choong
Choong Katherine has done two 8c's in Oliana, Fish Eye and Mind Control, each of which took her four days of trying. The latter was originally an 8c+ but nowadays it is mostly considered an 8c, upon which also Katherine agrees. " I did it quite fast, when I solved the begining (the crux for me) I send it the same day. So maybe it's more 8c. But the style is really for me, no hard move juste endurance. However it was 50 meters of fight that ended with lot of happiness and good energy" She finished off by onsighting Mon Dieu 8a+, also in Oliana. "I travel until end of march between France and Spain for rockclimbing. Then I come back in Switzerland for training and back to work (I finished university in January 2016 and started internship to become lawyer). I will compete most of the world cup I can." (c) Gabriel Rancourt Photography

8c+ FA by Matteo Gambaro (42) in Albenga
Gambaro Matteo, who made seven FAs 8b+ to 9a in Albenga last year, has done yet another by Anchorage 8c+. The 42-year-old is #1 in the 40+ ranking game and as a matter of a fact, the Italian is at his scorecard peak. "New line that I ve bolted in october 2016. 28meter overing up the central sector "Terminal" in Val Pennavaire near Albenga/oltre Finale. Powerful and tecnical routhe. 2crux intermediate for a rest and finish with good 8a...All natural.

The longtail boats from Railay are not any longer to take climbers to the old DWS sector and some other climbing islands like Chicken Islands. However, a new DWS place has been found which is almost as good. When it comes to bolting, the local authority has banned further developments which especially the climbing school are sad about as they would like to open up new easier sectors.

Studio Bloc Masters โ€“ a world class competition for everyone
Studio Bloc Masters will take place at Studio Bloc in Pfungstadt, Germany on 25th and 26th March. Qualification starts on Saturday, March 25th and itยดs opened both for those who boulder for fun and professionaly, so EVERYbody can register up to March 19th 2017 and spend time next to Jan Hojer, Alexey Rubtsov, Jongwon Chon, Monika Retschy, Fanny Gibert and many more professional boulderers! For the qualifications the organisation team counts with about 400 competitors from all over the world trying to challenge the 80 qualification problems set through all over the 2 000 mยฒ of boulder wall, which has already become popular all over the world. On Sunday March 26th the semi-finals and finals take place, both judged by qualified referees and up to international standarts. The strongest 20 men and women will try their best bouldering 4 problems in the semifinals. The last 6 men and women standing will keep competing on 4 new problems. All that will happen at the championship wall. 1st Place prize is 3.000 โ‚ฌ. On Saturday there will be an After-Party with DJs and bands. So come along, get some drinks, food and have a good time. All profit from this event will be donated to the organisation โ€žClimbers Against Cancer". For more informations just check Blocmasters.de

9a (+) by Sรฉbastien Bouin in Santa Linya
Sebastien BOUIN has done La Novena Enmienda 9a (+) in Santa Linya. (c) Raphael Fourau "In December, during the time I was working as sport teacher, I was training in Paris in order to prepare myself for "La Rambla" (9a+ Siurana). Yet, one week before to go to Siurana I injured my finger, it was a pulley... So to climb "La Rambla" wasn't possible, there are some crimps in the crux. I had to find a project without crimps, but where??? Santa linya was the solution. In fact, even if it was hurting I was able to try the route: La novena enmienda 9a/9a+. I was able to do all the sections in the first go, yet the route is around 50metters in a big overhang. The difficulty was to not injure the finger more. In fact, I had to be careful with my finger and my shape. I couldn't try the route tired. And some days, when my finger was hurting, I couldn't climb, and I needed to wait. Sometimes for many days. I was scared about this injury, that's why I am happy that I did this route, it's good for my mind, and good for the next. Even if it's not my maximal level, I enjoy to do something where I put energy and risk."

8c+/9a FA by Laura Rogora (15)
Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a last year, being 14 years old, has done the FA of La Gasparata 8c+/9a at Callepardo, near Rome. It could be the hardest FA ever established by a female. In total, she spent four days and 12 tries on it. In the 8a ranking game, the 15-year-old is strengthening her leading position. (c) Domenico Intorre