A jó hír, hogy a sérülése javulónak tűnik, legalábbis az insta kommentek alapján.

Vo všeobecnosti nie je veľa lezcov, ktorí sa venujú lezeniu s lanom aj boulderingu na vysokom leveli. Tu je kombinovaný rebríček Top-5 žien, v ktorom je Amanda Berezowska (na obrázku) na druhom mieste. 1. Oriane Bertone FRA 2. Amanda Berezowski CAN 3. Frances Bensley GBR 4. Margot Salon FRA 5. Lara Neumeier GER Minulý rok preliezla svoje prvé 8b+ a v posledných týždňoch sa jej podarilo vyliezť prvé tri bouldre obtiažnosti 7C+. Na obrázku lezie Amanda boulder Slow Dance v Bishope. "Lezenie je môj život! Začala som ako členka súťažného tímu v Calgary, potom som cestovala, liezla a súťažila na medzinárodných pretekoch a bola som pri tom, keď vznikala lezecká oblasť Virgin Gorda." Amandin blog

There are less climbers who perform on a high level in both routes and boulders. Here is the Top-5 Combined female ranking where Amanda Berezowski on the picture is #2. 1. Oriane Bertone FRA 2. Amanda Berezowski CAN 3. Frances Bensley GBR 4. Margot Salon FRA 5. Lara Neumeier GER Last year she did her first 8b+ and during the last weeks, she did her first three 7C+. Slow dance in Bishop in the picture. "Climbing is my life! I started in Calgary on a competitive youth team, I travel, climb and compete internationally, and was part of developing the Virgin Gorda." Check her blog

Louis de Cornulier has put together his Top-9 video list. "Enjoy, stack up motivation, and go climbing!!" Please add your best videos as a comment. Ganesh 8b+ by Gérome Pouvreau Video link La reina mora 9a (8c+) by Alizée Dufraisse Video link Coup de Grâce 9a by Dave Graham Video link Rolihlahla 8b by Paige Claassen Video link La rose et le vampire 8b by Anna Stohr Video link Tom et je ris 8b+ by Martina Cufar Video link Livin' Astro 8c+ by Dave Graham from Dosage vol. 2 (34'20) Spank the Monkey 8b+ by Tommy Caldwell from Dosage vol. 3 (1'17''07) Peace 8a+/b by Beth Rodden from Dosage vol. 5 (1'09''48) Steve Shadow makes the Top-10 complete, Sharma and Ondra do La Dura Dura 9b+.

Louis de Cornulierzostal zoznam jeho deviatich najobľúbenejších videí. "Zabav sa, naber motiváciu a hybaj liezť!!" V komentároch môžeš pridať svoje najobľúbenejšie video. Ganesh 8b+ od Géroma Pouvreaua Video link La reina mora 9a (8c+) od Alizée Dufraisse Video link Coup de Grâce 9a od Davea Grahama Video link Rolihlahla 8b od Paige Claassen Video link La rose et le vampire 8b od Anny Stohr Video link Tom et je ris 8b+ od Martiny Cufar Video link Livin' Astro 8c+ od Davea Grahama z Dosage vol. 2 (34'20) Spank the Monkey 8b+ od Tommyho Caldwella z Dosage vol. 3 (1'17''07) Peace 8a+/b odm Beth Rodden z Dosage vol. 5 (1'09''48) Steve Shadow završuje Top-10, z videom Chrisa Sharmu a Adama Ondru v La Dura Dura 9b+.

Zdá sa, že Alexove zranenie sa zlepšuje, keďže sa posledné dni podľa jeho Instagramových postov pohyboval a liezol v oblasti Leonidio.

Michaela Kiersch má v Red River Gorge parádnu bilanciu. Predminulú nedeľu sa jej podarilo preliezť jedno 8c+ a minulý víkend pridala ďalšie dve, Southern Smoke a Fifty words for Pump. Na ich prelezenie jej stačilo len 10 pokusov. Jej výkon je o to hodnotnejší, že cesta do Red River Gorge z Chicaga, kde trénuje miestny tím a zároveň študuje na univerzite, trvá autom 7 hodín. Čomu vďačíš za takýto extrémne rýchly progres? "Naozaj netuším. Asi som jednoducho silnejšia ako kedykoľvek predtým a leziem bez zbytočného tlaku a očakávaní, čo mi jednoznačne pomohlo." Akým spôsobom trénuješ a aké máš ciele do budúcna? "Robím si vlastný tréningový plán na základe toho, čo chcem dosiahnuť. Zvyčajne chodím do RRG (Red River Gorge) cez víkendy a cez týždeň trénujem silu/silovú vytrvalosť v utorky a štvrtky. Proste sa zlepšovať."

Update: UKC has now changed saying it is a consensus 8c for which also Hazel Agrees upon! UK Climbing reports that Hazel Findlay has done Mind Control and they report it with the original 8c+ grade even if "everybody knows it's only 8c", as Gabri Moroni said already in 2012. Hazel Findlay, one of the best female trad climbers, did not name any grade in her report, she just says, "This is the only route I've ever really thought about or trained for. And it's not because it's the best route I could find (although for a sport route it's pretty good) it's because I knew if I could do this route then I knew I would be over all my injury troubles." 8a started to report this as 8c (+) already in 2012 but the last year, we have reported it as 8c in order to not mislead our readers. Anyhow, great news from Findlay.

Sebastien BOUIN has done Fabela 8c+ and Ciudad de Dios 9a in Santa Linya. Previously, he has done 21 routes 9a and harder out of which ten of them were FAs. "This route is powerful at the start and then a little bit crimpy. I fell more or less 10 times on the crux with a bad beta. Yesterday, after my first try, I decided to change the beta. The try after that, I did the route. This is part of the experience I think, to feel the better way to get past the crux." His next plans are one 9a in Terradets and maybe Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya. "My finger IS better, but not yet totally recovered. I hope in one month it will be good."

Statistics show that the team that starts penalty kick shootouts in football wins in over 60 % of the cases and in the World Championship the favor to begin is even greater. In order to reduce the coin flip, deciding who is going to start, FIFA has decided to start a test with similar rule like in tennis tie break. First, one penalty followed with two penalties by the other team. Research has been carried out suggesting that the simple reason for the 60 % winning probability for the first team relates to lower pressure to start a penalty kick shootout. In bouldering comps, the results in the final show a similar outcome as early starters have relatively good final results in comparison to their semi results. The best example of this is found from Anna Stöhr's record showing that she did win some 70 % when she started first but only some 35 % when she started last. Kind of strange that in the comps where she won the semifinal, she had the lowest percentage of winning the final, and vice versa. The second best example is from the world champions showing a correlation that the worse result you had during the semi (meaning you started in the beginning), the better result you had in the final. In fact, the 6 + 6 male and female who were #6 in the semi and started first in the final have won five gold and three silver! 8a has pondered this since since 2007, when we saw Daniel Dulac onsighting all four boulders in the final but in the final he was dead last. The French climber did later comment that he could not handle the pressure knowing that once he tried the boulder, he did know that most guys had already topped it. FIFA has dealt with the starting first advantage problem. It is about time that also IFSC make some changes in the rule, creating more exciting finals where the winner is not decided before the last climber out has started the final boulder.