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The Youth World Championship in Innsbruck started today with Boulder for Youth A. In the male second group, Keita Dohi was the only one to do two boulders and 16 boys scored zero bonuses. In the first group it was a bit better and the twelve first did at least one boulder. Complete results Among the girls, the boulders were also too hard as Ashima Shiraishi and Sandra Lettner were the only ones with three tops. Anyhow, more than half just got a maximum of one top and 17 scored 0 bonus. What is truly remarkable is that this is the third Championship in a row where the boulders have been too hard for the youngsters. (c) Heiko Wilhelm In fact many coaches and youngsters were upset and actually some had problems to do the first move from the starting position. In many cases, guys who made it to the semifinal, did do many less moves and bonuses in comparison to lower ranked. 8a has previously suggested having two or even three bonuses in order to make comps more fair and fun. 8a has also suggested that the route setters should have guidance saying that at least half of the guys qualifying to the semifinal should do four boulders.

Jan hojer won the World Cup in 2014 and was #2 in 2015 when he also was the European Champion. Since then he has just made finals once in 12 WC's, before winning in Munich. It is interesting that after his last three Boulder WC's in June, averaging as #23, he has not done any structured bouldering training, instead he has mainly been competing in Speed and Lead where his best results were #4 and #11. Talking to Jan explaining his recent success and training he says, it is all about motivation and having fun while training and competing. (c) Marco Kost - Training and competing is about giving 100 %. The past weeks living in Innsbruck inbetween comps, I have been psyched for every session I did because of the great training partners and facility! The last two months my lead motivation kept me away from bouldering or serious training and for me there is no reason to do a hang board session if I don't feel like it. Bouldering is such a mental game that changing focus and having other goals in mind helped me across all disciplines. I even tried the speed route a bit and it has been great fun. Of course the Olympics are a goal of mine but we'll see how the next seasons go. Summary video from Munich

Tomasz Oleksy has won five Speed World Cups and two Boulder World Cups. In 2003, he won the Speed and the Boulder World Cup on the same day in Yekaterinburg and got a bronze and silver in the World Championship in Chamonix. During the same year, he won the WC overall in Speed and was #5 in Boulder. The following year the Pole tried Lead once and was #14. In other words, Tomasz Oleksy is the best Combined climber in history and shows that it is possible to perform in all three disciplines. If climbing would have been Olympic 15 years ago, he might have been the mega star with some golds medals around his neck! "Normally I trained Speed after one day of break when I was fresh. The rest of my training I focused on Bouldering training and Lead climbing, two days training and one day rest. In one period I tried to train two times a day but it was too much for me. Outside I was focused for climbing mostly onsight. I was able to climb 8b onsight. In bouldering I was able climb 7C+ onsight and 8B problems quite fast. I never focused on really hard stuff and I did just like two trips per year." (But he has done the FA of Tysiac kotletow 9a, in 2000.) Piotr Kotlarski tells us the extreme story from Malatal when Tomasz recommended his warm up boulder. ""Guys, a great boulder, a mix of coordination and power, I really like it". He'd done it like three times for fun, saying it is around 7C. Then the locals arrived and said he'd done Petting with an Alligator 8A+. Today Tomasz is working as an IFSC route setter and he did the Munich WC and now he is in Innsbruck for the Youth World Championship. "Fortunately this job offers me time for climbing so I am still more less in the game, 8a onsight :))). When I have time we try with my family to go climbing outside as much as possible. I think this is very important for Maja! Maybe my daughter will have chance to finish this Olympic story?" Follow up story with Maja, who did his first 8a this summer, Petit Tom in Céüse, at 9-years-old, soon to come.

There are 1 172 athletes registered to compete in the Youth World Championship, making it the biggest ever competition ever. Only in male A Bouldering, 132 will participate. The registration starts on Tuesday 29/8 and the marathon event finishes of on Sunday 10/9 with the Youth Olympic qualification for Youth A. On this day, the Top-20 in Combined will once again compete in all three disciplines and the Top-13 best qualifies for the Argentina 2018. (C) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing First all will compete in the three disciplines doing qualification, semi and final which also counts as Combined qualifications for the finals during the last weekend. In practice, it is not so important to have a good result in all the three disciplines but rather to win one discipline as the Combined result is based on multiplication. In other words, 1 * 20 * 20 = 400, beats 7 * 8 * 8 = 448. On the other hand a potential Speed winner getting around 250 points will have hard time to get to the podium as 2 * 6 * 20 = 240 points and 1 * 12 * 20 = 240. Most probably, the medals will be rewarded for the guys getting in between 100 - 150 points and in order to get to the Youth Olympics you will need a maximum of 1 500 points. It should also be mentioned that to qualify to the Top-20, it is even more important to have at least one good result instead of three medium results. 5 * 50 * 50 = 12 500, beats 23 * 23* 24 = 12 696.

Piotr Schab, who just did Thors Hammer 9a (+) in Flatanger has onsighted his third 8c in 2017, Nordic Flower. As a matter of a fact, it actually was set up as a 9a and for a long period it was considered as 8c+ until Adam Ondra gave it the 8c grade everyone now confirms. "Enormous, hour long roof fight. Didn't find the right betas for both cruxes, but a huge piece of both faith and luck made me a happy boy in the end!

Arco Rock Masters was finished with the Duel Speed climbing. Among the males, Adam Ondra was superior in all rounds and the female race was won by Julia Chanourdie. Today the Arco Rock Master finishes with street bouldering!

Jed Black V11/8A - Dinas Rock from Leo Skinner on Vimeo.

The four medal races had two falls starts and two falls, meaning there was no real excitement in the Speed final. In the end, the only ones to finish with two clean races were Anouck Jaubert and Vladislav Deulin. In previous years you were allowed to have one false start but now, you are directly eliminated from that round. We have seen many similar cases during the year and it seems the climbers have not yet adjusted properly for the new rule. Complete results Here are the results for some potential Olympic candidates. David Firnenburg 8.60, Clair Bhurfeind 10.01, Brooke Raboutou 10.95 and Ashima Shiraishi 12.26.