NEWS

Carlos Granja from Ecuador and Daria Kan from Russia, who won after a false start, are the new Junior Speed World Champions. Beside the false start, there were a total of two falls and one big error during the semifinal making it not so exciting to watch. Complete results What about adding like two seconds or so for a false start, like in Paralell slalom after a fall, in order to avoid anti-klimax? Claire Buhrfeind, who won the Boulder event was #4, meaning that sheis the best Combined climber overall after two disciplines. In practice, this also make her a contender for a medal in Tokyo 2020. Her best time was 9.17 meaning she could make finals also in Speed World Cups and she is well ahead of other top Combined climbers. Stefani Jacopo from Italy and Polina Kulagina from Russia won among the Youth B, where all Top-4 girls were from Russia. In total, Russia got eight of the twelve awarded medals today.

Buhrfeind and Ogata Junior World Champions
Heavy rain in both the semifinal and the final for the juniors but even so the organizers managed to put on a great show in front of two big crowds. In the end, USA and Japan won double victories. 1. Claire Buhrfeind USA - 2t3 4b8 2. Maya Madere USA -2t9 4b16 3. Johanna Holfeld GER - 1t1 2b2 1. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN - 3t7 4b6 2. Meichi Narasaki JPN - 3t9 4b5 3. Jan-Luca Posch AUT - 2t2 4b4 Complete results More pictures and a report can be found at Austria Climbing USA and Japan have dominated the Youth World Champions so far. In Youth A, there were also two girls from USA on the podium and two boys from Japan. Among the Top-4 in the Youth B semifinals, there were six from Japan!

Three 9a's during a rainy week for Alex Megos
Alex Megos, who two weeks ago was #7 in the Munich Boulder WC and who won the semifinal one week later in the Arco Lead WC, has delivered again. On Facebook he reports, "WOW! What a week! Today was the last day of my @redbullswitzerland trip! I climbed 6 days straight, visited 3 totally different areas and climbed "Coup de grรขce" 9a my 3rd 9a this week! Couldn't have wished for any better last day of this trip!" Checking his page, you understand that is has been raining most of the time and that the other 9a's he did were Im Reich des Shogun and Speed Integral. Alex seems to have stepped up another level this year and now we can hope that he will try to make it to Tokyo 2020.

Total domination by Japan in Youth B
1. Futaba Ito JPN - Rei Kawamata JPN 2. Natsuki Tanii JPN - Semen Ovchinnikov RUS 3. Saki Kikuchi JPN - Ryoei Nukui Complete results Photos and a report can be found at the Austria Climbing website (Pic by M. Liebhaber)

Sep 2: 10:00 - 12:00 Boulder Semi, Juniors (M+F) Livestream-Link 14:30 - 16:45 Boulder Semi, Youth B (M+F) Livestream-Link 20:00 - 21:40 Boulder Finals Juniors(M+F) Livestream-Link

Schenk and Shiraishi Youth A World Champions
Filip Schenk from Italy won first the qualification and the semi. In the final he made four straight flashes winning the male category in a superior style. The very last move he did statically meanwhile all the others had to go very dynamically. (c) Eddie Fowke 1. Filip Schenk ITA - 4t4 4b4 2. Keita Dohi JPN - 4t11 4b6 3. Mizuki Tajima JPN - 3t5 4b6 1. Ashima Shiraishi USA - 4t7 4b7 2. Luiza Eleleva RUS - 3t5 3b4 3. Brooke Raboutou USA 3t9 4b10 Complete results Ashima Shiraishi was equally superior also first winning the qualification and semifinal rounds. Overall the route setting was great and although rain it was packed. A perfect start of the Youth World Championship Finals in Innsbruck. Read more at the YWCH website report

Livestreaming 20:00 (GMT +2) for Youth A finals
Austria Climbing has presented an article for the Youth A in preparation for the final tonight that will be livestreamed at 20:00 (GMT +2) From the complete results, we can see that Filip Schenk and Ashima Shiraishi won the semifinal. Laura Rogora, pictured by Eddie Fowke did also make it. The Combined Top-13 from the Youth A, will qualify for the Youth Olympics in Argentina next year and most likely, some of these youngsters will also compete in Tokyo 2020.

From the complete results for the juniors we can see that it was perfect route setting today. As for the senior males, Japan dominates with three guys Top-6. Kai Harada is the first in Innsbruck who has flashed all four boulders. Among the females, three from USA are in the Top-10. Read more about the qualifications at the YWCH website report

Livestreaming from Youth Worlds starts on Friday
Updated results for Youth B. Sep 1: 20:00 - 21:40 Boulder Finals Youth A (M+F) Livestream-Link Sep 2: 10:00 - 12:00 Boulder Semi, Juniors (M+F) Livestream-Link 14:30 - 16:45 Boulder Semi, Youth B (M+F) Livestream-Link 20:00 - 21:40 Boulder Finals Juniors(M+F) Livestream-Link You can follow the results live through a newly developed App by Tim Hatch. Apple and Google. More info on Austria Climbing and their Facebook. The picture from the Opening ceremony with all the 50 nations gathered was taken by Heiko Wilhelm.

Almost perfect boulders for the youngest girls - Japan dominates
After the way too hard route setting for Youth A yesterday, the problems for the Youth B were made a bit easier which turned out almost perfect for the girls. In one group, seven topped all four problems and only seven out of 43 did not make a single top. In the other group the #6 made two tops and 16 did not do any boulder but all but one did score zones. Complete results For the boys, the boulders were a bit too hard. In one group the #2 did just two tops, 30 out of 45 did not make any top and seven scored zero bonuses. In the second group, the results were much better spread and only ten did not score any top. More great pics by Eddie Fowke Something interesting is that among the males two Japanese boys won their respectively group and for the girls, the two best Japanes were runner up in their respectively group.