Listening to the Alex Megos "talkshow" with Klemen Becan at the Leonidio Festival and talked to him and his coach Dicki Korb, the message is clear, it is about enjoying the challenges. They can be served as projects, onsights, WC competitions, training exercises or complicated yoga positions. Megos says he enjoys them all and his trainer underlines that it is about using your creativity to make also the hardest training like a fun challenge. Tomorrow, Alex is competing in Kranj and meanwhile his opponents have done sessions in their gym to optimize their plastic feeling the last weeks, the 24 year old have enjoyed eight climbing days in a row in Leonidio plus one gym session. Two months ago he competed in Lead in Arco, having just returned from a bouldering trip in Rocklands, and he won the semifinal. (c) Micha Schreiber - It is also about meeting friends in Kranj that I not meet so often. It will be fun. I have not yet made up my mind if I will go for the Olympics. There are so many things to do. Participating at the Olympics with no commitment makes no sense for me. Therefore I have to bring some sacrifices, bigger than ever before in my climbing. It's a situation where you shouldn't make a rushed decision. Sure I will have great fun challenging the Speed route in the beginning but it will take much more. The good thing is of course that with the multiplication format, during the qualifications, it will be most important to perform on the highest level in two disciplines. Once you are among the 20 going for the Olympics, the result also in Speed will become more important.

Charles Albert, who stopped using climbing shoes some five years ago, has added a three move lower start to his La Revolutionnaire in Fotainebleau, making it his first 8C+. Charles says he do not think it is possible with shoes as there is a good pocket where he can squeeze in his big toe pulling in hard, meanwhile with a shoe, you can just push with your foot. In total he needed around 15 sessions. In the picture, the previous sit start is marked with red dots. Previously he has done three 8C's. Is this the hardest boulder in the world to repeat? Probably, any of the top boulders would need years of preparation to develop the big toe pulling in strength as well as the barefoot technique Charles possesses.

Patxi Usobiaga, one of the very best competition climbers in the history has done Pachamama 9a+/b in Oliana. It was put up in 2009 and it has been repeated five times out which some have said it is hard for the grade. Patxi is the first to suggest 9a+/b. Patxi's story of the eight year battle. Patxi has a special relationship with this route cause back in 2009 was where he got injured his shoulder and months later due to the car crash he stopped climbing for years. Last april Patxi sent again 9a+ with Papichulo and then he tried the route for a while. (c) Javipec

For every of the 5 000 crags in the 8a data base, you can find a season diagram that can help you to find the best time of the year to visit a specific crag. The upper diagram is from Leonidio which just might have the biggest proportion of winter ascents. Below you have Kalymnos diagram, which shows a stronger concentration during late spring and autumn.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done the second ascent of Kaizen 8C/8C+ in Torrelodones, Spain. Beto Rocasolano did the FA and proposed 9A, without the new Jorge's beta including a rest that Jorge has found for his send making the boulder completly different. (C) Jaime Díaz. And writes on his scorecard: "Oh my God I still can't believe it! Thanks for this high peak motivation and strength! Tired today and having tried it just two days the last year, got a magic try and I nailed it to send.. Ace Beto for the FA. Hard to grade though with some new beta and a new rest would be easier than when Beto did it. IMO will be in the 8C/8C+ range, the repeaters will confirm it. Super happy! Now keep going! " Needs to be mention that the traverse grade is approximately two grades easier than in the regular scale. For example an 8A traverse equals to a 7C.

Leah Dempsey has in just four session done Sleepy Hollow 8A (+) in Grampians and the amazing thing is that she started climbing in 2013. In 2015, she did her first 7A boulder and last year she did her first 7C. In Lead, she has jumped from 8a to 8b+ in 2017. "I don’t know if I have fast track method for my progress, apart from the fact that I enjoy the whole challenge of training and taking responsibility for my own climbing and progress. Also having a super supportive and encouraging network have helped an insane amount. Believing is key! Oh, and having lots of fun!" So what about training? Mainly just bouldering in the gym, campusing, fingerboarding, as well as some basic core and shoulder stability exercises. Nothing too strict. All depends on the project/upcoming trip at the time. I make sure that I have at least five days off every four months to not burn out.

Luca "Bbazooka" Rinaldi has flashed his first 8B through a solo mission on Blinded by the Light in Brione. "It was an unexpected thing. In the morning I saw Jimmy's (Webb) video. Almost always his beta is perfect for me, we are taller, we weigh 80kg and climb the same way...I wanted to try it before trying Nike (the project of the day) ...I've always thought that "the flash try" is just one for life...many times I do not try to flash the hard boulder...i think: I can't do it...but this time as in some cases I sat there and I did my first attempt from the start with the free mind and I was on top of the boulder...After 10 ten seconds i realized that in guidebook this is 8b...

Claire Buhrfeind, who won the qualifications in all three disciplines in the Youth Worlds in 2017, has set a new personal best in Speed by 8.90 in the Pan American Youth Championship. In comparison to the other female athletes going for the Olympics, she is totally superior as the others still struggle mainly with 12 seconds. In 2016, Claire was #7 in the Lead World Champion and in Bouldering her best result is winning the Youth World Championship. (c) Eddie Fowke