NEWS

Two 8C's in Font by Ryohei Kameyama
Ryohei Kameyama has had an extraordinary three weeks trip to Fontainebleau where he did two 8C's The Big Island (c) Takuya Nakamura and Jour de chasse as well as three 8B+'. Interestingly, the 20 year old Japanese have done three Boulder World Cups with the best result #43! We will follow up with comments.

Emontana has put together long article including all details how the climbing grades have eveloved from 6a to 9c. At the same time Climbing has put together a list for female achievements since 1799.

Patxi Usobiaga is #4 in the 8a ranking game
Patxi Usobiaga, one of the best competition climbers in the history, has updated his scorecard and goes to #4 in the ranking game. In total the 37 year old has recorded 20 routes 9a and harder. Soon to come a follow up interview from his recent 9a+/b personal best. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

Garnbret and Yushiyuki most impressive in China
Most of the best competition climbers did take one more trip to China to finish of the season. Janja Garnbret won in Lead, climbing faster than Jessica Pilz, who also topped both rounds. In bouldering, Miho Nonaka won and and Garnbret was second. Miho was also the fastest among the Combined competitors with 10.30 and Janja Garnbret did her debut with 13.60. Overall, Janja would have won the Combined if such multiplication would have been done. Among the male, Jakob Schubert got one more victory and in bouldering Jongwon Chon did also win again. When it comes to Speed, Jan Hojer was superior among the Combined guys by being #11 which also was his results in Lead. In Boulder he was #4. The best Combined male result was however achieved by Ogata Yushiyuki (19), who was #3 and #3 and #17, third last, in Speed. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

8a.nu and Vertical-Life are hiring!
Vertical-Life is about to redesign and improve the 8a.nu platform. Are you a software engineer and would like to work together with a highly motivated team? Please send your application to [email protected]. Required skills: - Object oriented programming - Experience with relational databases - Basic web development skills (CSS, Javascript, DHTML, HTML) Desired skill: - C# / ASP.NET - Ruby / Ruby on Rails

La Sportiva Legends Only will take place for the seventh year in a row in Klรคttercentret in Stockholm 25/11 and it will be a live-streaming. The line up is impressive as always. Shauna Coxsey, Petra Klingler, Staลกa Gejo, Katja Kadiฤ‡, Fanny Gibert and Mรฉlissa Le Nevรฉ.

Digital topo for Taragona (Siurana, Margalef etc.)
Vertical-Life Climbing App recently integrated the Tarragona Climbs guidebook by Pete Oโ€™Donovan and Dani Andrada in its topo collection. This means that there is now a digital version of the famous climbing guide, which presents some of the major crags of Catalonia, among others Siurana and Margalef. Tarragona is known to be a treasure trove for sport climbers and one of the most important sport climbing destinations in Europe. A very active climbing community has turned the area into a true climbing mekka for pros and for amateurs alike. The second edition of the guidebook by Pete Oโ€™Donovan and Dani Andrada contains more than 100 crags, which represent only part of the huge range of available sectors. However, the authors have taken their choice carefully and made sure to present the most worthwile areas. The digital guidebook is now available in the Vertical-Life App, where climbers can purchased the full guidebook or smaller chapters. The printed guide will be out by the end of November.

Two 9a's by Adam Ondra
17 November 2017

Two 9a's by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has done another two 9a's, the FA of Ci Sta in Arco and Mongo in Schleier Wasserfall. In the picture by Roland Hemetzberger you can see it was done in snowy conditions. Overall, the 24 year old has now recorded 149 routes 9a to 9c in his scorecard that has been opened 2.1 million times. Alex has done 74 routes 9a and harder and is runner up on this list ahead of Ramon Julian Puigblanque (66) and Dani Andrada (65).

Boreal Mutant 2018
17 November 2017

Boreal Mutant 2018

During the last months in 8a we have been testing the excelent Boreal Mutant. This well designed shoe (as many of Boreal) is extremly precise in many of the rock types we have tested on. The shoe is leather made and adjusts with one velcro strap. They're also made in Spain. (c)Talo Martรญn - Muรฉrdago Films It is very interesting the LTS (lateral torsion system) that avoids the shoe to lose the shape, spreading the tension over the sides and keeping the comfort. The covering for the toes is made with Friction Skin that makes the toe-hooking very comfy and accurate. The midsole works super good on edges feeling the holds way bigger. The heel is completly filled with no gaps, wich makes it easy to use even in small crimps despite being rounded. The sticky 4mm Boreal Zenith rubber completes this sending pack for your proyects.