NEWS

9a/+ and 8c+ by Anak Verhoeven in Santa Linya
Anak Verhoeven, #3 in the World Cup 2017 and who just established the very first female 9a+ FA, reports on Instagram that she has done Ciudad de Dios in Santa Linya which is 9a/+ in the topo. (All ten entries in the 8a data base selected 9a.) (c) Monika Vetinka During the same day, the Belgian also did La Fabela 8c+ which in practice is an easier version of Ciudad de Dios. Based these two ascents, the 21-year-old has been moved up to #6 on the 8a Sport climber of the year list.

Bjรถrn Alber, aka Dr 8a, has put together a instructive video how to get stronger gripping power including both the theory and practical exercises. The new thing is a greater focus on muscle growth, through more and longer repetitions, and also to combine several new and normal maximum power exercises, aiming to get synergy and injury free forearm muscles. His son Ymer has successfully followed the program for some years.

5 December 2017

Junior of 2017 - Draft

1. Janja Garnbret 2. Ashima Shiraishi 3. Margo Hayes 4. Yoshiyuki Ogata 5. Sam Avezou 6. Claire Buhrfeind 7. Laura Rogara 8. Filip Schenk 9. Brooke Rabotou 10. Loic Zehani, Moritz Welt, Meichi Narasaki, William Bosi, Kai Lightner, Alberto Lopez, Laura Stรถckler, Sandra Lettner, Elena Kravsovskaia, Pietro Biagini, Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Natsuki Tanii, Naile Meignan, Semen Ovchinnikov, Rudolfh Ruana, Baptiste Ometz, Mikel Asina, Shuta Tanaka, Lara Neumeier, Ai Mori, Colin Duffy, Rei Kawamata, Moritz Perwitzschky, Keita Dohi, Nico Ferlitsch, Jan Vopat, Futaba Ito, David Naude, Philipp GaรŸner, Pablo Hammack, Jakob Kronberger, Leo Skinner, Zach Galla, Marketa Janosova, Ema Seliลกkar, Clay Gordon, Maya Madere

8C by Florian Schmalzl
5 December 2017

8C by Florian Schmalzl

Christof Rauch reported last week on his Instagram about Florian Schmalzl: "Today he climbed both of Klem Loskots masterpieces "Bรผgeleisen" (8B+) and "Emotional Landscapes" (8C) in Maltatal on the same day!" Florian is one of the few remaining hot shots climbing under the radar with no active social media. He is 26 years old and has been climbing for ten years and he has done a couple of 8B+'s before.

Climbing has presented an interesting interview with Adam Ondra in regards how he used visualization for doing Silence 9c. "There are three ways to do visualization, all performed while lying on a bed or mat: You can stay still and only do everything in your head. You can move your hands and feet slightly while you picture the moves. Or you can ask someone to โ€œcreateโ€ crucial holds and footholds. So, if there is a dyno to a jug, you get your body into position, guide your friend to create the jug exactly where it would be on the wall, and then go for it. I am using all three techniques."

Most climbers train mainly indoors and the goal is to do harder routes/boulders and often we have specific projects in mind. During the winter season, one good motivation booster is actually just to go out and rappel down the projects. To go down from above with a clear mind not being tired both physically and mentally could possibly open up for some new beta or thoughts. This might explain why the guys bolting routes end up with personal best on the routes that he/she did equip. Rappelling down could also be considered as visualization but in reality.

First 9a in Israel and an 8c+ flash by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has made a visit to Israel and the Nezer cave where he did eight routes including the FA of Climb free 9a and a flash of Yala factor 8c+. "Amazing project from Ofer on the right side of the cave. He was so close to make FA on this trip, thanks Ofer for letting me try it! One of the best in the cave."

Loic Zehani has done his 8th 9a, Ma faute ร  toi in Cevennes where he also did his first two years ago. "I redpointed the route Wednesday after the school (the 2 hours of drive) and after a good fight. I almost fallen at the top. It was a good moment with the principal bolter of the cave, Jean Marc Oberli. Now he is the most Frenchman of the swiss man... We must thank him for opening all these nice routes.

Is this a new world record set by the Boulder World Cup winner 2017?