Pirmin Bertle put up Meoise in 2015 calling it 9b. Two weeks ago Adam Ondra made the first repeat giving it a personal 9a+ grade and part of the explanation was a no-hands rest he found. Pirmin has written a blog saying, "I clearly refuse a downgrading of Meiose." Using it as a 9a+ reference for Switzerland would mean to block the way further up for almost every actual 9a climber of the country. Pirmin arguments that Adam's suggestion must be considered a highly personal grade as without his length and knee-bar skill and his length it is more difficult for others. 8a has for several years said Adam is a role model as he is the top climber in the world that most frequent gives personal grades. Without climber like him and some few others, the grade inflation would have been much stronger. Bertle seems to say that repeaters should give community, meaning that Ondra should take into account that he is super good at knee-bars and that he is relatively tall, i.e. give it 9b. On the other hand, it would be very hard to ask all repeaters to not base their grade suggestion or confirmation on how difficult they personally thought it was. Instead, they should make a scientific estimation on how difficult they believe the whole climbing community would perceive it. Grades are the number one criteria, for the media, deciding which ascents should be reported. At the same time, grades should not be so important for the climbers that instead should focus on the challenges. Although in theory, it could work as Pirmin suggests, in practice, this type of community grading might get the climbers confuse. When am I allowed to give a personal grade and when should it be community based? Possibly, Bertle sets the bar too high? A third way of grading is to use the Time Comparison Grading, meaning that you could base the grade on how much time you have invested, using the best sequence and in good conditions etc. The 8a stand here is that we are grateful towards all like Pirmin and Ondra that help us to present as accurate grades/news as possible at the same time, we fully understand that most want to stay away as long away as possible from suggesting or confirming grades.

When Dave Graham put up The Story of Two Worlds as an 8C in 2005, 8a had for years talked about grade inflation. Graham's name related actually to the two grading worlds that existed at the time. Many thought 8C was just a sand bag grade and when Paul Robinson did the first repeat, one big website actually first reported it as 8C+. Sebastian Cotting did the 14th ascent the last week, using the lay down start which Dai Koyamada invented and suggested 8C+ for, and presented a video showing some new sequences he found. Here is his comments on the grade. "There’s always a way to do it better - Find it!“ And I found it. Enough to climb Dave Graham’s masterpiece „The Story of Two Worlds“. 3.5 years of trying and specific training. It was a crazy journey. After all the Betas we found (kneebar, heel-toe-lock), I think "Story" is closer to 8B+ than to 8C. Thanks to everybody, who helped me, to find all this crucial micro-betas. Regarding the low start: It basically adds only one more move. The first move and to put the knee bar is harder too. But no, there is almost no difference to the normal start (it's just nicer :). But keep in mind: With the NEW Betas. The low start was for sure harder for Dai. Not to mention how insanely difficult his Beta is for the whole "Story". My greatest respect to Dai!"

Keenan Takahashiand Ethan Pringle has done The Nest 8C in Red Rocks after having worked it for a long time. Daniel Woods put it up in 2013 and it has previously seen five ascents. Keenen's Insta, including picture: This one was quite a journey; I don't know if there's any other move I've tried more than the one pictured. So much microbeta, self-doubt intertwined with self-belief, existential crises in full effect, and finally the strangest and most wild sensation of place in the world. Many huge mental and physical battles but the war is finally over! From Ethan's Insta we see that he got inspired by Keenen's beta and fired it of on project day #50.

More and more climbing gyms offer digital services to their customers. This is not only comfortable for climbers – for example when getting informed about new routes via smartphone – but it also allows a comparison between the gyms and gives them visibility. There are now 34 gyms world wide that have signed up using Vertical-Life's App in order to organize their route setting and give possibility to mark routes and create challenges. Most active in January was Oslo Klatrecenter with 2 520 "Zlagged" climbs. For every month there is a Challenge like in February where everyone who Zlags 300 meters or 66 boulders take part in a Raffle with many nice prices.

Ryuichi Murai, #3 in the 8a ranking game, comments the Japan Bouldering Cup where he sensationally got the silver which made him qualify to the national team going for the World Cups. "I spent only one month to training for BJC2018. I mainly trained my weak movements. For example, coordination and triple dyno. Additionally I also did pull-up with Beastmaker2000." 1st Kokoro Fuji - Akiyo Noguchi 2nd Ryuichi Murai - Ai Mori (14) 3rd Tomoa Narasaki - Futaba Ito (15) Interesting is that it was basically only this competition with 160 participants where new athletes could qualify for the national team and the World Cup 2018. "An athlete who have high world ranking last year, and an athlete who won in Bouldering World Cup last year, could already be qualified." Futaba Ito won the Youth World Championship where she was accompanied by two 14 year olds. Ai Mori was #7 in that World Championship but she is to young to do WCs this year. Some coaches said last year in Innsbruck that these Japanese girls are the future. Bear in mind that these young girls did actually beat Miho Nonaka #4 in the WC last year as well as Aya Onoe and Mei Kotake, #10 and #11 in the WC 2017. Remember also the fast positive trend for Japan and that they had five guys in Top-8 last year. With so many new faces winning over some of the best boulderers, we just might see the Japanese domination increase in the future.

Eddie Fowke, who runs The Circuit Climbing has recently gone on Facebook to sell a limited edition run of tee shirts to raise money for the 2018 season. We spoke to Eddie to find out more about the background and future plans. “I've shot 69 World Cups over the last 5 years (starting 2013), and more than 100 international competitions in all. I made the tee shirts as a homage to 1970’s style rock band tour shirts. They are something I will do more of, this first limited run was to fund my weekend at the US Nationals, but there will be a further run available internationally to help support The Circuit in 2018 and beyond”.

Michaela Kiersch reports on Instagram that she has made the FFA of Necessary Evil in Virgin River Gorge after some 5-6 days working it. The 30+ m test-piece was bolted by Boone Speed and Chris Shama did the FA being 16 years old as his first 8c+ which was the highest grade in USA 1997. Part of the preparation for Michaela to do the classical route was the USA Bouldering Natonals where she was #11. "I wasn’t training for bouldering nationals, I was training for this! I am usually in better sport climbing shape and have been focusing my training on finger strength." The last two years, Michaela has done six 8c+ and one 8B boulder. In the Combined 8a ranking game, she is a superior #1. Interesting is that she graduated from University in November and is now a full time climber.

IFSC reports that Japan airline has become a new major partner until Tokyo Olympics 2020. "We are thrilled to have such a committed partner sharing the same vision and passion for aiming higher, especially during a period of substantial growth and new opportunities for sport climbing,” says IFSC President Marco Scolaris. “We are looking forward to flying into the challenges of tomorrow with Japan Airlines.”

Giuliano Cameroni has added 14 boulder 8A+ to 8B+ which he has done this winter mainly around Ticino, out of which 10 FAs. On the picture, the 20 year old does Iur 8B+ in Cresciano which was the vision from Markel Mendieta. Do you have more projects? There is still a lot of potential, especially for hard climbs. Many of the projects in Ticino are really hard to visualize, but when you learn how to look at the rock it seems that they are everywhere. This place is going to be futuristic!

Andrew Bisharat has made some comments and asked questions in regards the bouldering formats etc. Below you have the answers. He actually also gave some credit for my idea of creating different beta style within the same boulder. "His example was to envision a problem in which the beta could involve running/parkour-style movements on volumes, or a techy traverse solution on underclings. I actually agree with this idea in theory. It would be really cool to see a problem that lends itself to beta diversity, though in practice, I’m not sure how you could set a problem like this." IFSC route setter, Tomasz Oleksy has today answered me, - I think I can create this future problem :) Later Andrew discusses the problem that the route setters can decide who will win by favoring certain style or size. "The stakes in comp climbing are going up every year. Purses are getting bigger, and now climbing is in the Olympics. As the stakes are raised, will we begin to see more prevalence of setter bias?" Andrew's possible solution is to let programmed robots do the setting. What about simply use my original idea one more time to make it mandatory for the IFSC route setters to actually create two different style/size betas when needed?