5 February 2018

Bouldering format trial and error

Andrew Bisharat has made some comments and asked questions in regards the bouldering formats etc. Below you have the answers. He actually also gave some credit for my idea of creating different beta style within the same boulder. "His example was to envision a problem in which the beta could involve running/parkour-style movements on volumes, or a techy traverse solution on underclings. I actually agree with this idea in theory. It would be really cool to see a problem that lends itself to beta diversity, though in practice, Iโ€™m not sure how you could set a problem like this." IFSC route setter, Tomasz Oleksy has today answered me, - I think I can create this future problem :) Later Andrew discusses the problem that the route setters can decide who will win by favoring certain style or size. "The stakes in comp climbing are going up every year. Purses are getting bigger, and now climbing is in the Olympics. As the stakes are raised, will we begin to see more prevalence of setter bias?" Andrew's possible solution is to let programmed robots do the setting. What about simply use my original idea one more time to make it mandatory for the IFSC route setters to actually create two different style/size betas when needed?
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