5 February 2018
Bouldering format trial and error
Andrew Bisharat has made some comments and asked questions in regards the bouldering formats etc. Below you have the answers. He actually also gave some credit for my idea of creating different beta style within the same boulder.
"His example was to envision a problem in which the beta could involve running/parkour-style movements on volumes, or a techy traverse solution on underclings. I actually agree with this idea in theory. It would be really cool to see a problem that lends itself to beta diversity, though in practice, Iโm not sure how you could set a problem like this."
IFSC route setter, Tomasz Oleksy has today answered me, - I think I can create this future problem :)
Later Andrew discusses the problem that the route setters can decide who will win by favoring certain style or size.
"The stakes in comp climbing are going up every year. Purses are getting bigger, and now climbing is in the Olympics. As the stakes are raised, will we begin to see more prevalence of setter bias?"
Andrew's possible solution is to let programmed robots do the setting. What about simply use my original idea one more time to make it mandatory for the IFSC route setters to actually create two different style/size betas when needed?
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



