NEWS

70m 9a+/b FA by Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin reports that he has done the 70 m long and 20 year old project Eyes bigger than the cave, with "amazing boulders problems on the top", where he fell four times. "<>If I compare this route with other I did or try, I can porpose 9a+/b. I think it's harder than Chilam Balam (9a+/9b) and Pachamama (hard 9a+, proposed 9a+/9b by Patxi Usobiaga). The first roof part is around 20-25 meters. After you reach a good rest and you can change your rope. Then you have a bouldery crux on one finger pocket to reach an other rest. Until here it could be 8c route. Then there is one resistant 9a to do. This 9a part is starting with big tufas, and after there is 7A boulder + 7A boulder + 7C+/8A boulder + 7B boulder. All these boulders problems are amazing."

8B+ again by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio has done her fourth 8B+, Penrose Step in Leavenworth. "AMAZING!!! Revenge after getting robbed a year ago when I fell off the very end and then the rain came in. It went down second day this trip and I tried it I think 2 days last time. So took 4 maybe 5 days in total split over the two trips. What an AWESOME line!!! :)" (c) Joel Zerr In the 8a ranking game she is #17 among the guys which is the highest any female has had since we started with the scorecard in 2000. The runner up in the World Championship in 2014 is listed to do the first World Cup in Meiringen the next weekend. "Iโ€™m actually not doing the first 2 world cups anymore. This was a last minute decision. I decided that since Iโ€™m going to go to Europe this summer/ fall for 3 months to basically do Lead WCโ€™s and Boulder WC with World Champs and others competitions on top of that. I also didnโ€™t feel 100% prepared to try and win a WC yet and during/after our Lead Nationals I was and still am dealing with a couple little finger injuries. They seem to feel a lot better on rock which is nice! I will be in Vail WC for sure and then a TON of comps all the ways till December after that! If I didnโ€™t take care of my body now and take a break from indoor climbing I would really feel it later this year! A break now and then is really needed and Iโ€™m not only a indoor/ competition climber. I would go crazy if all I did was competitions still."

9a and 9a+ by Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist has made the first repeat of two Joe Kinder routes; The Re-Up in Cathedral from 2008 and Bone Tomahawk in Fynn Cave from 2016. "Super steep and seriously tenuous with essentially no rest. My anti-style for sure but still it felt a little too hard for 9a. Respect to the Kind Kid!" (c) Tara Kerzhner In total, Jonathan has done 34 routes 9a and harder excluding a couple he has given a personal down grade for. In the 8a ranking game, he is #2 after Adam Ondra.

No Train No Game
1 April 2018

No Train No Game

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Sachi Amma continues his journey with a 9b FA
Sachi Amma, stopped competing after he won the World Cup in 2014. Next year he reached his goal to do ten routes 9a or harder. Midways in 2016, he took a another break from doing hard routes but now he is back with a new focus on doing hard FAs. Three months ago he did the FA of Maturity 9a+ and last week he did Soulmate proposing 9b. More info on his Insta. (c) Masaaki Maeda What have been the important aspects about your climbing and how have they changed over the years? There are so many aspects about climbing. It drags out myself from darkness. It makes connection with so many people. It is a social. It is the way how I live in this social. It is the way to express myself. Everything acts together. But the strongest aspect to me is that it is a tool to meet my existence. You can imagine that art, Yoga or meditation is the tool to meet your existence. Climbing is getting like those action to me. Why do you think they change over years? I spent so much energy in competitions. Then I shifted to hard routes in outside. I released all the energy. Then I started opening hard projects. Certainly if you see only actions in the real world, I keep changing. And my inside also transform strongly. But deep inside of me not change at all. Jens got a question about my changes and transformations. But many of my friends says that โ€œYour spirit does not change at all.โ€ I can say both is correct. But I would like to arrow myself to change and transform. And hope you feel really deep inside of me is taking root to my existence more and more. How do you see your climbing lifestyle will change over the coming years? I feel that life has some secret. Climbing has some secret. You know what I mean. All the changes and transformations are happening without my control. I do not know what I can do with it. Maybe I keep doing one thing for 10 years. But you must see something is changing and something is more rooted.

8A+ again by Alex Puccio
Alex Pucciohas done Beautification, 8A and Turbulence 8A+ in Leavenworth. In total she has done a total of 167 boulders 8A and harder which is totally superior among the female. (c) Joel Zerr "Sweet Line! Harder than most V11's, but pretty soft for V12. Went down pretty quick in the sun. First time ever trying it. Got to climb 3 awesome lines that I never got the chance to try on our last trip. :)" In two weeks, the runner up in the World Championship in 2014, will begin the World Cup season in Switzerland also with some Olympic interest. "I plan to do some Bouldering and Lead world cups this year, but not the whole seasons and I will be at World Champs for sure competing in at least Bouldering and Lead.

8B+ (C) by James Webb
James Webb has done the first repeat of Matt Fultz The Expanse in Joe's Valley giving it a personal 8B+ grade. "Really unique line from Fultz! Morpho one for sure! Suited me well so felt maybe more 8B+? Time will tell." (c) Taylor McNeil In the 8a ranking game, James regains his #1 position 3 points ahead of Christof Rauch, due to an 8B flash. In total, James has recorded 14 flashes 8B, including three personal down grades.

April Fool's by Ghisolfi but also serious
Stefano Ghisolfi 9c+ was an April Fool's thing and we actually did get some emails showing that people believed it :) "Obviously, it was an April Fool. Iโ€™ve never climbed a 9c+ called Pelirpa (if you read in the opposite way, it is Aprile P., or April 1st in Italian), Nasa is not my sponsor and I cannot levitate for resting on a route! It was absolutely absurd, but it was very fun set up this prank. The best part is that a lot of people and websites made it bigger than expected, sharing the picture in collaboration with me. It was fun, and so crystal clear in its senselessness that I hope very few of you believed it. However, itโ€™s time to focus on a (real, this time) problem that often our beloved sport shows. In rock climbing we have no judges, we are the jury of ourselves and for this reason it is crucial to be honest with everyone. I always try to record all the attempts on my projects (especially when nobody is at the crag). In this way, digital stuff is now very affordable and easy to use, and if you have a video proof there are no doubts about the ascent. This would be one feasible solution to avoid this problem. In alternative, if you have access to more technology (or to the NASA sponsorships), build a Hyper Gravity room and train to climb the first 9c+ of the world!"

8A+ by Leo Skinner (14)
Leo Skinner has done his first 8A+, Evil Sideways in Dinas Rock and here is the video. "Really psyched to get the 4th ascent of this boulder on my 3rd session! Iโ€™m really lucky to have some local strong climbers support me and to put up many hard testpieces like this one in my local area. The boulder breaks down into two sections of powerful climbing. The first being a 5 move V9 and the second a 5 move V8/9 with no rest in between."