4 April 2018
70m 9a+/b FA by Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin reports that he has done the 70 m long and 20 year old project Eyes bigger than the cave, with "amazing boulders problems on the top", where he fell four times.
"<>If I compare this route with other I did or try, I can porpose 9a+/b. I think it's harder than Chilam Balam (9a+/9b) and Pachamama (hard 9a+, proposed 9a+/9b by Patxi Usobiaga).
The first roof part is around 20-25 meters. After you reach a good rest and you can change your rope. Then you have a bouldery crux on one finger pocket to reach an other rest. Until here it could be 8c route. Then there is one resistant 9a to do. This 9a part is starting with big tufas, and after there is 7A boulder + 7A boulder + 7C+/8A boulder + 7B boulder. All these boulders problems are amazing."
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Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ