In 2009 Chris Sharma bolted La Dura Dura and two years later he did something unusual for the climbing community, as he told Adam Ondra to challenge him for the FA. Ondra did it in 2013 and one month later Sharma did his first 9b+. Cooperation in competitions is common but "closed projects" are quite normal in the climbing world and calling Perfecto Mundo an open project, Chris has once again showed the way forward. "It was great climbing with Stefano and Alex on Perfecto Mundo. They were very respectful in asking me permission and honestly I had been quite on and off with the route so it was super motivating to try and share there experience with someone else. Definitely way more fun than trying it alone. And it was great to share something special with the new generation. Sometimes keeping projects for ourselves can block the good energy from flowing naturally and it was great to let the good vibes flow with Alex and Stefano. Such nice guys and incredible climbers and athletes. That being said, I think it’s a case by case situation, and people should respect people’s projects and always ask for the bolter’s blessing. I’m super psyched to continue trying and hopefully send Perfecto Mundo one day soon. It’s one of the most meaningful routes I’ve tried and have yet to complete. So whether it goes this season or next, I plan to keep at it till it comes together!" (c) Ricardo Giancola

Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka won the fourth stage of the Boulder World Cup in Tai'an and continues their total domination. In the last two WCs, Akiyo has done all 26 boulder (Miho 25) and the runner up Stasa Gejo has done 15 boulders. Among the male, Alex Khazanov got his and Israel's first victory, interview is coming up, with the two Slovenians Jernej Kruder and Gregor Vezonik sharing the podium. The route setting and show was perfect in Tai'an with many amazing moments and excitement to the very. 1. Alex Khazanov 34 ISR - Akiyo Noguchi 44:5 JPN 2. Jernej Kruder 24:2 SLO - Miho Nonaka 44:10 JPN 3. Gregor Vezonik 24:4 SLO - Fanny Gibert 23:6 FRA Complete results The results are presented as points and with ties, the number of attempts are added.

Here is the overall World Cup ranking, counting all four events. There are three competitios remaining and then you count the all but one event. Complete results 1. Jernej Kruder 307 - Miho Nonaka 340 2. Tomoa Narasaki 251 - Akiyo Noguchi 330 3. Alexey Rubtsov 208 - Fanny Gibert 207 4. Kokoro Fujii 197 - Janja Garnbret 180 5. Rei Sugimoto 157 - Stasa Gejo 167 6. Gregor Vezonik 156 - Katja Kadic 164 7. Alex Khazanov 152 - Jessica Pilz 138 8. Jongwon Chon 149 - Chloe Caulier 114 9. Jakob Schubert 142 - E Kipraiianova 98 0. Tomoaki Takata 127 - Sol Sa 95

Chris Sharma bolted Perfecto Mundo in 2010 and has worked it of and on since. Stefano Ghisolfi started working on it this winter and they were joined by Alex Megos this spring who just sent it after 15 days projecting. (c) Sara Grippo How come did you choose this route as your first long term project and did you do any specific training for it? It was not a decision I made beforehand. I just had a Spain trip planned to Margalef and Oliana with checking out "Perfecto Mundo" in mind. So I got here and after checking it out I got really psyched on it. We've been talking about going and trying Perfecto Mundo with Stefano (Ghisolfi) already a while ago but I never managed till now. Chris was giving me all the beta he knew and he was the first one I'd see climbing on the route which was super interesting to see. We motivated each other and helped each other with beta and sequences. Stefano ended up taking my foot beta for the jump from the mono to the pinch for example. I changed my beta for the top to Stefanos beta. We were belaying each other as well. I didn't do any specific training for the route no. I came straight from a bouldering World Cup to Spain. All the training I did was on the route itself. Also Ghisolfi has enjoyed the cooperation and might take another trip if the weather cooperates before he need to start preparing for the Lead World Cup preparation. "It was motivating to try the route together, no competition between us but just cooperation. I don't know how close I am, could take one more week or maybe I need to come back in autumn or winter."

Perfect route setting, based almost only on volumes, in the semi final where we saw some sensations as Tomoa Narasaki and Alexey Rubtsov missed the final. With the old scoring system, Narasaki would have been #2 as he flashed three problems but as he failed to get the zone on the fourth, the new scoring system put him down to 8th place. Among the male, six Japaneses in Top-11. Complete results. The final starts 02.30 GMT+8. Female finalists: Noguchi, Nonaka, Gibert, Condie, Färber and Gejo Male finalists: Fujii, Kruder, Vezonik, Khazanov, Sugimoto and Chon

The male Japanese domination in the Boulder World Cup continues and they won both groups in Tai'an as well as got nine into the Top-20 semifinal, starting tomorrow 09.30 GMT+8. All the big names made it through. Complete results. (c) IFSC Among the female, the Japaneses set a new record with eight into the semifinal and to make it even more impressive, they participated with just eight female. The next Boulder WC takes place in Tokyo and there some 20 female and 25 male Japanese athletes are allowed to compete. The reason for the higher number of male is due to there were five in the Top-8 overall.

Alexander Rohr has done the first repeat of Simon Wandeler's Alpenbitter 9a in Gimmelwand from 2007 and the story is great. "During the first tries I came have way up the boulder but failed horribly! Too nervous and too much power just end in very inefficient climbing for me. As I got more and more tired and about to fire go number six, something magic happened. Something I never really experienced before. Very intense. I started climbing to the first No-handrest before business starts. I was thinking about having a slight chance to still get through. But instead of making thoughts, I just completely forgot myself and I can‘t even remember what happened. I just remember the feeling while climbing towards the top. It felt like a big rush, full of energy and tiredness. Two opposites balancing out perfectly. My body got more and more tired but my mind was releasing energy I never knew it‘s existing. Perfect on a route like this where every move gets harder and harder until everything is over. The last move before the rest are very bouldery and hard. I was just smashing the dropknees around and totally went for it. In the last move I almost passed out as I didnt‘t have oxygen in my body anymore. Everything was gone and I just realized that I‘m on the redpoint. Calm, and suddendly almost fresh. I did not get nervous, I just knew that I‘m going to do it now. Totally trapped in a bubble. Then I just climbed to the top and realized that I‘m the complete opposite of fresh! I couldn't yell or cry for long. Too tired. I jumped off and felt like I was running to save my life. Truly a special experience!‘

Manon Hily seems to be in her best shape in her life and has done Coma Sant Pere 8c+ in Margalef. "Much easier then Era Vella meaning 8c/+." (c) Théo Cartier Last week she did Era Vella 8c+ (9a) after just trying if for four days and during her trip she has onsighted or flashed every 8a she has tried and she also did her first 8b onsight, La presó dels monstres. She says that the Margalef style with many two finger pockets suites her style.

Instead of doing the Bouldering World Cups in China, Shauna Coxsey is enjoying summer weather in Västervik, Sweden, where she today did Namaste 8A+.