10 May 2018
9a by Alexander Rohr
Alexander Rohr has done the first repeat of Simon Wandeler's Alpenbitter 9a in Gimmelwand from 2007 and the story is great.
"During the first tries I came have way up the boulder but failed horribly! Too nervous and too much power just end in very inefficient climbing for me. As I got more and more tired and about to fire go number six, something magic happened. Something I never really experienced before. Very intense.
I started climbing to the first No-handrest before business starts. I was thinking about having a slight chance to still get through. But instead of making thoughts, I just completely forgot myself and I canโt even remember what happened. I just remember the feeling while climbing towards the top. It felt like a big rush, full of energy and tiredness. Two opposites balancing out perfectly. My body got more and more tired but my mind was releasing energy I never knew itโs existing. Perfect on a route like this where every move gets harder and harder until everything is over. The last move before the rest are very bouldery and hard. I was just smashing the dropknees around and totally went for it.
In the last move I almost passed out as I didntโt have oxygen in my body anymore. Everything was gone and I just realized that Iโm on the redpoint. Calm, and suddendly almost fresh. I did not get nervous, I just knew that Iโm going to do it now. Totally trapped in a bubble. Then I just climbed to the top and realized that Iโm the complete opposite of fresh! I couldn't yell or cry for long. Too tired. I jumped off and felt like I was running to save my life. Truly a special experience!โ
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