13 May 2018

Team work made the FA on Perfecto Mundo 9b+

Chris Sharma bolted Perfecto Mundo in 2010 and has worked it of and on since. Stefano Ghisolfi started working on it this winter and they were joined by Alex Megos this spring who just sent it after 15 days projecting. (c) Sara Grippo How come did you choose this route as your first long term project and did you do any specific training for it? It was not a decision I made beforehand. I just had a Spain trip planned to Margalef and Oliana with checking out "Perfecto Mundo" in mind. So I got here and after checking it out I got really psyched on it. We've been talking about going and trying Perfecto Mundo with Stefano (Ghisolfi) already a while ago but I never managed till now. Chris was giving me all the beta he knew and he was the first one I'd see climbing on the route which was super interesting to see. We motivated each other and helped each other with beta and sequences. Stefano ended up taking my foot beta for the jump from the mono to the pinch for example. I changed my beta for the top to Stefanos beta. We were belaying each other as well. I didn't do any specific training for the route no. I came straight from a bouldering World Cup to Spain. All the training I did was on the route itself. Also Ghisolfi has enjoyed the cooperation and might take another trip if the weather cooperates before he need to start preparing for the Lead World Cup preparation. "It was motivating to try the route together, no competition between us but just cooperation. I don't know how close I am, could take one more week or maybe I need to come back in autumn or winter."
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ