NEWS

Based on 1 000+ unique votes to, Warming-up before climbing?, with the 2014 results in brackets, we can see that still few warm up properly. This is quite interesting as often when a training article is published, the authors often underline that proper warming up is important. 06 % NO: Full power directly (4) 28 % NO: Only easy climbing (28) 14 % Sometimes/Few minutes (15) 16 % Often/8 minutes (19) 37 % YES: At least 15 min (34)

Alizรฉe Dufraisse has done two 8A+' in Rocklands; Lรจopard cave and Law and Order 8A+. "I will be here the whole summer. I have some hard projects that I tried last year.

8 July 2018

Villars Final

Slovenia and Spain got two victories each in the Euro Youth Cup in Mรผnchen. The only one to top out all three routes was Alberto Gines Lopez. 99: Luiza Emeleva RUS - Mikel Linacisoro ESP 01: Lucka Rakovec SLO - Alberto Gines Lรณpez ESP 03: Lucija Tarkus SLO - Hannes van Deysen BEL Complete results

Thilo Schrรถter, #11 in Moscow Boulder WC in 2018, has done his first 8C, Spray of Light in Rocklands which was put up by Daniel Woods.

First 8A+ by Erica Gatland (20)
Erica Gatland, who previously has done two 7C+', has sent her first 8A+, Moby Dick in Flock Hill after just four sessions, video. "It is a very technical problem that has shit down lots of strong climbers!" (c) Edwin Sheppard

Garnbret and Schubert win in Villars
Janja Garnbret looked surperior like last year and cruised the route to the last move going double dyno. Among the male, Jakob Schubert won his 20-iest WC victory. Interesting that Boulder specialist Tomoa Narasaki got his third podium in Lead. Noteworthy is also seven male Japanese Top-19 and three female Top-7. (c) Eddie Fowke 1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Jakob Schubert AUT 2. Jessica Pilz AUT - Romain Desgranges FRA 3. Jain Kim KOR - Tomoa Narasaki JPN Complete results Video Highlights

From the starting list in Villars we can see that some guys will start their Olympic preparation competing in both Lead and Speed; Alex Megos, Jan Hojer, Jernej Kruder, Stasa Gejo, Jain Kim and Janja Garnbret. Add to that also 17 Japanese entries in Lead including Tomoa Narasaki, Kokoro Fujii, Yushiyuki Ogata, Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka plus Aleksei Rubtsov and Elena Krasovskaia from Russia.