NEWS

Rollito Sharma extension 8c by Molly Thompson Smith
Molly Thompson-Smith has done Rollito Sharma extension 8c in Santa Linya and she is #6 in the ranking game. "It took 3 goes in 2 sessions to do Rollito, then I worked the extension after I did it. Then 2 goes from the ground the next session." In 2017 Molly was #7 in the Lead World Cup. Last December she ruptured three pulleys in a ring finger. Fully recovered she is going for the Olympics and this winter her focus are Bouldering and Speed, preparing for the selections and hopefully some WCs.

Many of the best climbers think that the best sending conditions are found during 5 degrees. If it is a sunny wall, you can climb also during freezing conditions. Here are some tips how to keep warm. It is all about transporting your 37 degrees blood out to your finger tips. 1. Warm up indoors properly including also max power 2. Tight long arm sleeves, wrist warmers and mitts 3. Cut of the finger tips of your gloves 4. Chemical hand warmers in the chalk bag 5. Sweater with belly pockets (cut them to warm hand on your stomach) 6. Big shoes so you can wear a socket 7. Put your shoes and gloves inside your jacket

18 December 2018

Ondra doing Assassin 9a

Here are the dates for the European Youth Cups in 2019 and further down also the Championships. 27-28/4 Soure POR (B) 10-12/5 Graz AUT (B) 25-26/5 Sofia BUL (B) 22-23/6 Ostermundigen SUI (L) 29-30/6 St Pierre Faucigny FRA (L) 03-04/8 Imst AUT (L) 22-30/8 Arco World Championship (prel) 21-22/9 Brixen ITA (B) Euro Championship 18-20/10 Voronezh RUS (L) Euro Championship More IFSC info

Login Cabin 8A+ by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done her 34th 8A+, Login Cabin in St Vrain and she is now quite superior in the 8a ranking game. (c) Chad Greedy "Wow !!!! So psyched, when I first tried this boulder I wrote it off as too morpho... but whereโ€™s thereโ€™s a will thereโ€™s a way.... one of my fav ascents recently. Super hard for me, full extention the whole time, fun fun !!"

In the Vertical-Life training App you can choose from 10 different "daily plans". Once you have entered your your gym and level, as well as type of focus on your training, the App will direct you to do specific routes and boulders in the Vertical-Life connected gyms. Here you can invite your gym. It also tells you when to rest and after the session you will report back and say how tired you were and the system will adjust until your next session. In the future, you will be able to create longer training plans with a focus on a certain ambition during your next trip etc.

Cheerleader 8B+ by Israel Olcina (43)
Israel Olcina (43) has done the second accent of Beto Rocasolano's Cheerleader 8B+ in Castillo de Bayuela, Spain. It is his second 8B+. Israel is a respected climber having been one of the first Spanish climbers to climb 8A in the late 90's. ยฉ Inรฉs Tostado "How has been the process on Cheerleader? I had seen it when Beto did it in march. I was amazed with the line and I couldn't get it out my mind back then. I stopped trying it at the end of the season and without the first move due to a index injury and I back to it end of november. The problem climbs an overhang to a roof and the section is a 7-8 moves where the first three are the hardest.