Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done his third 9a+ during the last month, No pain no gain in Rodellar. The 19 year old needed 13 tries over six days to take down the classical Dani Fuerte's route. (c) Javi Pec "One of the best routes I have done! An authentic route I will never forget. More than ever thanks to everyone for the encouragement!" Including also a 9b he did two weeks ago, Jorge is #2 in the 8a ranking game.

Jakob Schubert got the silver in the World Championship by, in total during the semi and the final, doing one boulder. We can rest assure that IOC will put IFSC to the wall wanting a guarantee avoiding such anticlimax during the Olympics. Possibly solutions, that have been pointed out previously here, is to give instructions to the route setters to aim for some 12 tops even if this might turn out that number of attempts will be used for separating the podium. Further more, with two zones, the route setters will have to do less long coordination/jumping sequences and instead be forced to do more straight forward pulling moves increasingly more difficult. From the athletes perspective these coordination/jumping moves will badly affect all finalist during the Lead qually tomorrow as they will have really bad skin that in some cases need tape. One more thing, on the bottom left of the picture, you can see that the judges have the updated results on their screen. How come is this not transferred to the live-streaming? With out any digital results on the screen it is very hard to follow the updated ranking and what is needed to advance to the podium etc. It should be mentioned that although the female final did get more tops, it had more or less the same problem making it clear that something has do be done.

Janja Garnbret, who two days ago become the Boulder World Champion, was once again ahead of the others but it was not until she understood that her friend Mia Krampl got the silver the tension let go and she started to celebrate. Then the commentators started to talk about her amazing competition stats for the 20 year old and having totally dominated the scene for four years. During several minutes they continued to give her credit in every possible with comments like, "there is no limit what she can do but we have to remember that she is still human..." (c) (c) Vladek Zumr This is the fourth time Janja has won a Lead WCH, although being just 20 years old. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 2. Mia Krampl SLO 3. Ai Mori (15) JPN 4. Chaehyon Seo (15) KOR 5. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 6. Jessica Pilz AUT 7. Vita Lukan SLO 8. Julia Chanourdie FRA Complete results

"I feel lucky that I win", Adam Ondra taking about Alex Megos mistake midways up the very hard route. Adam further more said he was very tired after the Bouder final and could not understand how he could grab the last hold which eventually made him win. Adam has now got a medal in seventh consecutive Lead WCH, out of which three golds. (c) Vladek Zumr 1. Adam Ondra CZE 2. Alex Megos GER 3. Jakob Schubert AUT 4. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 5. Sean McColl CAN 6. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 7. Kai Harada JPN 8. Hannes Puman SWE Complete results

Adam Ondra had won the semi final after having done the first three boulders in good style actually finding two no hands rest. The last boulder he only gave two tries. The route setting was hard but great and in the end ten did get at least one top and many very close calls. Japan got three to the final and five in the Top-9 and all seven participants in Top-14. 1. Adam Ondra CZE 34 2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 24 3. Kokoro Fujii JPN 24 4. Keita Dohi JPN 24 5. Yannick Flohe GER 24 6. Jakob Schubert AUT 14 Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

1. Janja Garnbret SLO 33 2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 22 (4) 3. Shauna Coxsey GBR 22 (6) 4. Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 12 (3) 5. Miho Nonaka JPN 12 (5) 6. Nanako Kura JPN 1 Complete results Janja Garnbret saved the show and won in great style. On the picture by Vladek Zumr she is doing her patented pendulum swing sticking a sideway dyno.

The male boulder final turned out way too hard with Jakob Schubert getting the silver by only getting three zones. Tomoa Narasaki somewhat saved the show by getting two tops but was not even close on the remaining two. Third was Yannick Flohe, in reality being the closest to get a top beside Narasak, although suffering from bleeding fingers. Adam Ondra, who won the semi, was not even close to get one zone on the tricky and almost only coordination and jumping challenging boulders. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Sascha Lehmann, Jakob Schubert and Tomoa Narasaki flashed both qualification routes. Adam Ondra was #10 after one top and being #22 and Czech Republich had three guys in To-13. Japan got five through to the Top-26 semifinal and all their six participants Top-29. No big names failed to make it but some Olympic candidates struggled; #28 Jernej Kruder, #30 Nathaniel Coleman, #33 Jan Hojer, #38 Yannick Flohe, #39 Manuel Cornu and Michael Piccolruaz. Among the Speed specialist, Bassa Mawem was #60 which means that if he wins the Speed he will almost certain get an Olympic ticket. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr