
15 August 2019
Male bouldering semi/final an anticlimax
Jakob Schubert got the silver in the World Championship by, in total during the semi and the final, doing one boulder. We can rest assure that IOC will put IFSC to the wall wanting a guarantee avoiding such anticlimax during the Olympics.
Possibly solutions, that have been pointed out previously here, is to give instructions to the route setters to aim for some 12 tops even if this might turn out that number of attempts will be used for separating the podium. Further more, with two zones, the route setters will have to do less long coordination/jumping sequences and instead be forced to do more straight forward pulling moves increasingly more difficult.
From the athletes perspective these coordination/jumping moves will badly affect all finalist during the Lead qually tomorrow as they will have really bad skin that in some cases need tape.
One more thing, on the bottom left of the picture, you can see that the judges have the updated results on their screen. How come is this not transferred to the live-streaming? With out any digital results on the screen it is very hard to follow the updated ranking and what is needed to advance to the podium etc.
It should be mentioned that although the female final did get more tops, it had more or less the same problem making it clear that something has do be done.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


