Laura Rogora, who just did her first 9b, won her first World Cup and actually she did not touch the top hold as she was strong enough to clip from the second last hold. Also Janja Garnbret topped it in good style, almost shaking and resting from all the last holds. Boulder expert Fanny Gibert was third. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Interesting is that the 19-year-old Italian has done a four routes 9a to 9b this summer. In total, the 153 cm tall has now done 14 routes 8c+/9a and harder which is most by all female. Last year she qualified to Tokyo but in Lead she was just #14 overall, although she got the silver in the Euro Championships.

Adam Ondra created once again the perfect show by topping out the final route. As usual, he was almost running up the wall with ease beside the last two holds were he fought hard. Runner-up was Domen Skofic who got his first podium since he won once in 2018. Third was Jakob Schubert. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

After the final, there was a touching ceremony for Luce Douady who tragically died this summer at age 16, falling 150 meter from en exposed path. Last year she was the Youth Bouldering World Championship and she got the bronze in the European Championship in Lead for the seniors.

1. Adam Ondra 39+ : Laura Rogora 33
2. Jakob Schubert 39+ : Nina Arthaud 27
3. Alex Megos 36+ : Janja Garnbret 26+
4. Domen Skofic 33+ : Vita Lukan 26+
5. Mejdi Schalck (16) 32 : Tjasa Kalan 26+
Male results and Female results

It should be mentioned that Adam Ondra first appeared as #5 in the ranking after scoring 31. Anybody who has an idea why Ondra originally was scored eight hold less? Four Slovenian girls in Top-6. Rishat Khaibullin was #11 after yet another strong performance.

Matteo Reusa (12) has done his first 8c, 7 pm JP chaud in Gorges du Loup and big brother Michele (13) has done his second, Hot Chili-X. Their father, Iuri (46), who recently also did an 8c, comments;

"Sharing the passion for climbing with my children is a very beautiful thing. It allows us to spend a lot of time together and to visit many places and travel long distances. It's great to see them improve every day and it's fun to try the routes together. The good and the bad thing about climbing is that it takes up a lot of space and time in our lives. I think that as long as I see that they have fun climbing I will support them in their path. The climbing must be pure fun or else it just becomes a big frustration."

Matteo: I like competing. I won the Italian championship three times. This year I did the tout a bloc and finished second. Michele: I did it on my last try on the sixth and last day of our holiday. My goal is to do an 8c+ this year.

Alexander Rohr reports from the last most doing four 8c+' and two 9a's, out of which two FAs. In total the 24-year-old Swizz has now done 22 routes 8c+ and 9a with his last one knocking on the 9a+ door. More pics on Insta

"After having completed Adam Ondras's Transcription, 9a in Charmey, I quickly did El Molinero 8c+ in Gimmelwald, Les temps difficiles 8c+ in Soyhières as well as Le roi lézard 8c (+) in Jansegg. Then I switched focus to an old project in Gimmelwald. It starts with Surfers Paradise and then opts for the left exit. I thought it is harder than Wipeout. That is why it is called Knockout 8c+. The crux is right in front of the chains.

After that I moved to the old idea linking Jungfraumarathon, 9a into Gimmelexpress 8c+. It’s got one more bolt in-between to get to the last but hard ten meters of Gimmelexpress. You basically do the whole hard part of Jungfraumarathon without the last part which is around 7c+. Instead, you climb to the right and do the last part of Gimmelexpress. This part is the redpoint crux for Gimmelexpress too and would probably check in at 8b+. Short and very intense climbing. Two days before the successful attempt, I could repeat Jungfraumarathon three times in a day but I was still falling in the last hard move of the new link-up. I then took a restday. After that, I finally did it on the first go of the day."

The biggest sensation in the Briancon qualification was that Rishat Khaibullin was #6. The Kazakstanian will compete in Tokyo mainly due to his Speed result. Laura Rogora, Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra topped both routes.

Solveig Korherr has done her third 8c+, La Cabane au Paradis in Rawyl. The 22-year-old German is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Jon Shen

"The route took me three days of work. On the first day, I wanted to check out the harder 9a „La Cabane au Canada“ but I also dogged the 8c+ Paradis exit. I managed all the moves to Canada but „La Cabane au Paradis“ seemed much more doable in the short time that we wanted to stay in this area. I had it down to a two-hang on my second day and managed to optimize some beta. On my third day, it was much cooler and I managed to tick this very cool line. Afterward, I checked out the lower boulder problem of the „Paradis Naturel“ 8b+ and also managed to pull a send together at the end of the day!"

What is your autumn plan?
We will continue our trip through Austria and I would like to do some harder multi pitch in the Verdon gorge and also check out La Ramirole.

Nine months since the last IFSC World Cup, most of the best athletes, beside the Asians, are gathered in Briancon for a Lead World Cup. Here you can follow the qualification results digitally. The live-streaming starts on Friday 19.30 with semis. The final takes place on Saturday 19.30 for the female and 20.45 for the male. No ranking points will be awarded. "...a series of guidelines concerning hygiene, social distancing and the use of personal protective equipment..." have been implemented.

In practice, volunteers and belayers should were a mask and "During observation time all athletes and officials shall wear their mask."

Kintana Iltis, who did her first 8A+ at age 14, has done two 8B's in Reunion island; Psychopad rallongé in Ravine des colimaçons and Le spartiate direct assis in Ravine de trou. The video shows extreame hip flexibility and a spider style almost like Oriane Bertone also from the Reunion island.

"In March, I returned to Reunion with my parents for the lockdown. During the whole period, I trained almost every day on my campus board in my garden. At the end of the lockdown, I had a mad desire to get back on the rock and it was an opportunity to try hard boulders. Shortly after, I released my first 8B boulder in June, Psychopad, a magnificent boulder. Just watching it gave me chills and I dreamt of doing it. Plates, heels, compress, inverted, change of hands, flexibility...all day long I imagined doing it. As the sessions progressed, I thought more and more that I was going to do it. After falling more than three times on the last movement of the boulder, I end up going back there with friends my father, and ten crash pads. Followed by the encouragement I made it and got an incredible smile spread over my face.

In the meantime I did four 8A's and one day, I discovered that it exists an 8B variant of one of the 8a that I had released, Spartiate assis direct, a ramp of slopers with heels and a big rise in the reverse flat with the right hand. When taking this reverse in my trying I said to myself, - Kintana, you are going to do it! I was so sure of myself that I did have the impression of having strength I went up with ease on this reverse and put the hand at the top out right hand and got amazed! Stars in my eyes, I go to bed at night with another 8B in boulder in my pocket Now I have returned to France for the selections for international competitions and for my return to school too. Climbing in the rock was really good for me :)

I have known Oriane, Max and Margot (Bertone) since I started climbing after school Stefano came to pick us up and we went indoor climbing together. The openings of the boulders were quite morpho for Oriane max and me. With Oriane, we climbed with the adults of the room on the same boulders. Being both small we had to find different beta from the others. We started to climb heels above the head, to stretch in the boulders to try to gain height to catch the holds, to climb higher feet etc ... I think now I have flexibility comes from there. Since then I have continued to climb like that. Two of my strengths are heels and body flexibility."