20 August 2020
Two 8B's by Kintana Iltis (17)
Kintana Iltis, who did her first 8A+ at age 14, has done two 8B's in Reunion island; Psychopad rallongรฉ in Ravine des colimaรงons and Le spartiate direct assis in Ravine de trou. The video shows extreame hip flexibility and a spider style almost like Oriane Bertone also from the Reunion island.
"In March, I returned to Reunion with my parents for the lockdown. During the whole period, I trained almost every day on my campus board in my garden. At the end of the lockdown, I had a mad desire to get back on the rock and it was an opportunity to try hard boulders. Shortly after, I released my first 8B boulder in June, Psychopad, a magnificent boulder. Just watching it gave me chills and I dreamt of doing it. Plates, heels, compress, inverted, change of hands, flexibility...all day long I imagined doing it. As the sessions progressed, I thought more and more that I was going to do it. After falling more than three times on the last movement of the boulder, I end up going back there with friends my father, and ten crash pads. Followed by the encouragement I made it and got an incredible smile spread over my face.
In the meantime I did four 8A's and one day, I discovered that it exists an 8B variant of one of the 8a that I had released, Spartiate assis direct, a ramp of slopers with heels and a big rise in the reverse flat with the right hand. When taking this reverse in my trying I said to myself, - Kintana, you are going to do it! I was so sure of myself that I did have the impression of having strength I went up with ease on this reverse and put the hand at the top out right hand and got amazed! Stars in my eyes, I go to bed at night with another 8B in boulder in my pocket Now I have returned to France for the selections for international competitions and for my return to school too. Climbing in the rock was really good for me :)
I have known Oriane, Max and Margot (Bertone) since I started climbing after school Stefano came to pick us up and we went indoor climbing together. The openings of the boulders were quite morpho for Oriane max and me. With Oriane, we climbed with the adults of the room on the same boulders. Being both small we had to find different beta from the others. We started to climb heels above the head, to stretch in the boulders to try to gain height to catch the holds, to climb higher feet etc ... I think now I have flexibility comes from there. Since then I have continued to climb like that. Two of my strengths are heels and body flexibility."
"In March, I returned to Reunion with my parents for the lockdown. During the whole period, I trained almost every day on my campus board in my garden. At the end of the lockdown, I had a mad desire to get back on the rock and it was an opportunity to try hard boulders. Shortly after, I released my first 8B boulder in June, Psychopad, a magnificent boulder. Just watching it gave me chills and I dreamt of doing it. Plates, heels, compress, inverted, change of hands, flexibility...all day long I imagined doing it. As the sessions progressed, I thought more and more that I was going to do it. After falling more than three times on the last movement of the boulder, I end up going back there with friends my father, and ten crash pads. Followed by the encouragement I made it and got an incredible smile spread over my face.
In the meantime I did four 8A's and one day, I discovered that it exists an 8B variant of one of the 8a that I had released, Spartiate assis direct, a ramp of slopers with heels and a big rise in the reverse flat with the right hand. When taking this reverse in my trying I said to myself, - Kintana, you are going to do it! I was so sure of myself that I did have the impression of having strength I went up with ease on this reverse and put the hand at the top out right hand and got amazed! Stars in my eyes, I go to bed at night with another 8B in boulder in my pocket Now I have returned to France for the selections for international competitions and for my return to school too. Climbing in the rock was really good for me :)
I have known Oriane, Max and Margot (Bertone) since I started climbing after school Stefano came to pick us up and we went indoor climbing together. The openings of the boulders were quite morpho for Oriane max and me. With Oriane, we climbed with the adults of the room on the same boulders. Being both small we had to find different beta from the others. We started to climb heels above the head, to stretch in the boulders to try to gain height to catch the holds, to climb higher feet etc ... I think now I have flexibility comes from there. Since then I have continued to climb like that. Two of my strengths are heels and body flexibility."
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