Mejdi Schalck, who was #7 in Briancon, and Paul Jenft, who was #10, have done their first 9a, Shortcut in La Balme. Schalck (c) Aurele Bremond comments, "Very pleased to have done this route. I was going crazy as I kept falling 6/7 times in the final part."

Gonzalo Larrocha, has done the 60 meter route XL 9a in Baltzola, after 7 or 8 days of projecting. In total, the 36-year-old has now 18 routes 9a and harder out of which six the last 12 months. "Good end of the summer, sending it on the penultimate day. I fell twice in the White Zombie area."

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Mina Markovic, who has won 22 World Cups, has done her third 9a, the 55 m Waterworld in Osp which was put up by Kleman Becan. Interview with Mina from July when she did her second 9a, Halupca with new pics from Luka Fonda. Starting from 2010, she was 2 - 1 - 1 - 2 - 2 - 1, in the overall World Cup. Last year, she had her worst season although finishing #4 in the European Championship. After the lockdown with cancelled competitions, workshops, and psychology lectures, she has had more free time to spend outside and go climbing.

" The first time I tried Waterworld was like six weeks ago. Honestly, it really 'shut me down' as I didn't understand anything at my 1st go 😣. I know the route is quite 'famous' for its complicated sequences, so it wasn't such a 'shock' after all. Anyhow, I did not try it for two weeks but somehow, (on the shooting of Halupca 9a), I still wanted to climb more. This time, I somehow understood some moves (in theory!), but I was still far from doing them individually. At that time, I realized, that even if I do all of them, a fair amount of biceps strength would be the need for connection. It has, by far, been the longest project I have ever had. I stopped counting after 21 tries but all in all, I guess almost 30 tries over ten days.

I did it on my fourth day climbing in a row on my 3rd go. Yes, my life would be easier if I sometimes know how to more rest 😆 but, (un)fortunately, I just love climbing too much... "

Did you do any special indoor training as a preparation? No 🙈🙈🙈, actually in last three months I have maybe spent 3-4 days indoors per month. I am climbing 5-6 days per week.

Arthur Guinet has done his seventh 9a, Der Helige Graal in Frankenjura, on his fourth session "It's not really "Franken style" as it is a long endurance route divided into three sections with good rest, traversing an amazing steep arch."

On Fanatic Climbing you said shorter routes like Action Direct is harder?
Yes, for me Action Directe is harder. I have been there two times but I could not do the first move and the next is hard as well.

What do you think about grade inflation and AD?
I agree with the inflation. I think the style of the routes have changed between 90's and now. Today, the routes are more endurance based and it's easier to make progress in endurance rather than in strength and power. If you want to progress in strength and power it takes a lot of times. It's also the reason why "9a endurance routes" are more repeated.

Advertorial: All three of us were hanging of the rocky outcrop. It was already afternoon and the team on the British route had been long gone since early morning. This was supposed to be a short break but neither of us moved. We looked at each other and the gaze was reflecting the same message: “it doesn’t look great!” No-one wanted to say a word or maybe neither of us wanted to say THE word. Read the full story

Evan Hau, who did his first 9a+ in June, has done the FA of Bow Valley Challenge 9a in Stoneworks. (c) Mike Hopkins

"I can't really guess how many sessions but it was a lot. I spent 2 months figuring out the sequences in 2018. It's quite intricate power endurance steep climbing, one of the steepest in the Bow Valley. Then about 1 month trying to redpoint this year. Part of the crux is slapping up an overhanging corner with very little texture and it's hard to chalk up. I had problems with my palms getting sweaty on hot days. This is the first line that caught my eye and the first line I bolted when I first walked into the cave. I had so much fun on this climb, one of the best hard lines in the area!!!"

Seb Bouin has done La moustache qui fâche 9a+ in Entraygues. In total, the French has now done almost 60 routes 8c+/9a to 9b/+. (c) Fred Labreveux

On Insta he comments, "After falling two times on the last "7b" moves, it was nice to finish the job yesterday 😀. It was cool to cut from the Verdon Gorges and the mega project on the Ramirole. Fresh air and new routes, perfect combo in Entraigues 👌. About the grade, I think this route is easier than Biographie. Yet, not enough to downgrade it to 9a."

Iziar Martinez, who had 8b as her personal best until six weeks ago, has done her third 8c, White Zombie in Baltzola after just two days projecting. The supersteep 30 meter route is famous for being the first 8c onsighted route in the world by Yuji Hirayama in 2004 and in 1999, it was the second 8c for a female done by Josune Bereziartu.
(c) Istrael Martinez
""I tried to do this route because I was close to this cave and a lot of people recommend it to me. It took me seven tries to send it during two days.My progress this summer was thanks to my coach and my families support and a little bit of my motivation 😂. Now I don't really have a project, I'm motivated to onsight. " One week ago, she did her first 8a+ onsight, Paideia in Rodellar and in the female ranking game, the 15-year-old is #9.